Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: A Long Time Ago
Page Views: 6,085 total · 44/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jun 24, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.

Location

Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.

Protection

Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.

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saltlick  
 
Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself... Oct 25, 2010
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG! Jun 12, 2011
ron amick
poway, ca
ron amick   poway, ca
Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder. Jan 7, 2012
AlexK
 
AlexK  
 
Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux. Jan 21, 2012
Kevin Green  
 
70m rope was nice for the rap. Was able to do it in one rap from the R with just enough to get to the ground.

Split the climb into 2 pitches. Made an anchor at the crusty bolts with a backup halfway. Used mostly small gear (Mastercam 1-3, BD >1). Nov 21, 2018