Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,965 total · 17/month
Shared By: scottydo on Apr 11, 2009
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb an overhanging (not a long overhang) hand crack on the left end of Owl Ledge. Difficulty eases to 5.4 after 15 ft. This used to be a 5.6 climb but a large 1000lb flake fell out of the start in 2001 (Or some say!). Currently rated 5.8!

Location

This climb is a fairly obvious crack a ways left of the more obvious Nutcracker crack and Gallwas crack.

Protection

Medium cams or stopppers. Descend off rap anchors at top

Photos

RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
When I get a chance to climb this route, it is always fun! TR'd. I love the first couple moves on this route. It is very gym-like moves. Super fun!! Aug 17, 2011
Marc Kajut
San Diego, CA
  5.7+
Marc Kajut   San Diego, CA  
  5.7+
So despite what some will say... this route is an easier route with some fall potential one or two moves off the ground before you pull the roof (how you choose to do this determines whether or not this climb is an easy 5.7 or hard 5.8 for you.) Make sure to place good pro so that when you fall the first time you try this you gain some confidence in your placements! Cheers, MK Oct 20, 2011
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Led it on 5.22.12. I agree w/ Marc about placing good pro prior to the crux. I added a few more pros before placing a knee bar. I look forward to leading it again...clean! So much fun!! vimeo.com/42692850 May 25, 2012
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
Short climb with a committing, tricky start. Mar 31, 2013
JTLA Tolins
Los Angeles, CA
 
JTLA Tolins   Los Angeles, CA
 
Hey, my girlfriend and I visited the area on December 7 of this year and accidentally left behind a number 5 BD cam in the crack at the bottom of this climb. If anyone has climbed this climb since then and come across this cam I would be forever indebted to you if I could get it back. Thanks. James (508) 868 5671. Dec 30, 2016