Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: FTR: John Vawter & Mark Thorpe 1973 FL: Werner Landry 1975.
Page Views: 1,657 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jeff S on Aug 26, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Start by climbing up to a thin ledge then up past two bolts to a horizontal crack under a small roof. Traverse five feet left, using the horizontal crack till you reach a vertical crack that enters the roof overhead; this is the crux. Pull the roof and jam your way to the top till you reach a bolted anchor. This route should protect well, but the leader should be comfortable with the grade. A toprope can be set up on this route to work out the moves.

Location

This climb is located on the Main Wall Center; Upper Tier Routes. Continue up past the Gallwas Crack to another ledge and gain purchase on top of a large boulder; should be able to see the two bolts at this point.

Protection

This is a mixed lead that requires small gear up to three inches and also protects with two bolts. There are also bolted anchors at the top for rappelling and toproping. Double length slings will do the trick for a TR.

Photos

T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
gear: three draws, then C4's: #1+QD at traverse, .4, .5, 1, 2. Maybe there was a .75 in there too? Aug 6, 2012
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
A bolt was added at the start, so now there are 3 instead of the original 2. The original 1/4" first bolt was replaced probably around 1999 and moved ~6" left, making it much harder (more dangerous) to clip. In summer of 2009 somebody decided to add a bolt below the original first bolt.

I have led this route multiple times on the 2 bolts and can say that the perfect solution would be to move the first bolt back right to its original location and remove the new bolt below that. Although chopping the new first bolt is not out of the question, it would actually return the route to a state more dangerous than its original condition.

I'm just trying to keep a record of the history here, properly repairing this route will take some ambition. Nov 23, 2009
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
The bolted anchor is near, to climbers' left of a nice flat boulder that begs to be used as a seat. Walk up from The Blocks (way left). Apr 26, 2008