Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle
Page Views: 1,817 total · 12/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Belay from a sloping ledge. Climb past two bolts on slippery features and a shallow, small cam placement to a ledge. Continue up a right facing dihedral to a rap station.

Protection

Standard rack plus two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.

Photos

Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
 
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
 
I am so glad I'm out of SD. Mission Gorge is horrible water-polished granite. Absolutely terrible climbing there. El Cajon mountain is probably the best sport climbing in that area, but a hell of an approach. With all that said, this route isn't too crappy, yet WAY short! Jul 29, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Hey! Dont hate. And I agree this route is somewhat satisfying. Nov 18, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   California
  5.10a
Fun climb that probably doesn't get the respect it deserves.

I could never get a cam to fit properly in the "shallow, cam placement." Instead, I find a #3 Metolius nut to work quite well. Be careful above that placement though. Several years back I was leading this and couldn't pull through the mantel and repeatedly kept falling on my nut without resetting it. Finally, on about the fourth attempt, the nut popped and I missed the ground by about 12 inches. After the fall, my belayer didn't even need to lower me. I just stretched my legs out and was standing on the ground. Needless to say, I scared the crap out of my poor belayer. Learned some important lessons that day and glad to say I am all the wiser now. Oct 20, 2011
Louis92064
Poway, CA
 
Louis92064   Poway, CA
 
A .2 bd x4 cam works well in the shallow crack above the second bold. Nov 5, 2013
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
where is this climb? May 12, 2014
A fun but slippery start on some edges and crimps over a bulge to finish on an easier crack dihedral. This climb and chicken fart are located on the main wall left of the Trauma and Lunch Rock area. Jun 17, 2014
David Garancosky
State College, PA
David Garancosky   State College, PA
Only had time to do one route here and this was it. SUPER slick until you get into the dihedral crack. Started left and below the belay shelf and made it a bit more PG+ for sure. Used a #4 BD nut in shallow crack but wouldn't want to fall on it. Only had one cam that would fit in the dihedral so just walked it to the chains. Fun but had a bit of a swearing fit on the crazy slick beginning. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Starting low and left stretches it into about a 45 foot route. Dec 13, 2014