Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 10,872 total · 69/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The climb starts out down and right from a small cave. Climb past two bolts to a ledge, then transition onto the upper face where the route continues up and right to a rappel station.

Protection

Seven (7) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sweet climb! Love the balance, the thin edges and that traverse! Jan 27, 2008
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
 
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
 
Pretty good deck potential from a couple spots and requires trust in your hands and feet especially in the traverse section. Not a great route for someone not comfortable on lead. Aug 7, 2008
bjk
bjk  
Great climb, 5.9 seems a little too hard for this route. Follow the bolts and traverse right on the top section (last 3 bolts) prior to moving up. Head up too early and it will seem much harder Feb 22, 2009
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
I thought I was ready to lead it. TR'ng this route and figuring out my sequence. Definitely thin, edgy and balancy. Not my strong points. Will continue to work on it :) Aug 17, 2011
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8+
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8+
Clipping the sixth bolt is a bit difficult hanging on to thin holds and slopey feet but it's really fun. Ive dont at least 25 different routes at the gorge and this is so far my favorite. 5.8+ or 5.9-. Aug 23, 2012
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.9-
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.9-
Stay true to the route ( no side climbing, no early top out). It felt like a 5.9- during the traverse followed by the up climb. I think this climb is a little easier for taller people :D Oct 28, 2012
ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
Great warm up to lead if you climb the 5.9 range. Careful if you tope rope it. I have seen the rope get caught on a rock at the start and when someone fell and they hit the deck. Feb 17, 2013
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8+ PG13
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8+ PG13
My g-friend led this and decked onto the big ledge midway up the route. She was one or two moves to the bolt after the traverse when she fell. Luckily, the rope caught her from going off the ledge. Also, luckily she didn't break her ankle, just a sprain that she was able to walk out on with some help. If you look at the rock it looks like there used to be a bolt protecting the middle of the traverse. Jan 29, 2015
Is her name Suzi? I hope she is ok. That route looks really cool. Did someone chop a bolt. Jan 29, 2015
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
With a name like that I just had to give this route a try. I found the route to be solid at the grade - but not a sandbag.. If you take your time holds are everywhere I don't really feel that the route was bolted poorly or unsafe some of the moves are committing and a good belayer is required. With that said I had a ton of fun solo leading this gem. Here are some long arm pics of the climb.






Jul 28, 2015
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
  5.8
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  5.8
Fun climb and long(ish) for the gorge. Close inspection reveals all the holds needed to cruise it, just take your time. Nice balancy move on the traverse and fun moves above it.

I think it is very well protected, you are able to high clip bolts BEFORE all the crux moves. A fall right above a ledge is never a good idea but with an attentive belayer this route is a very safe lead.

Anchor bolts are placed perfectly so it is possible to anchor with just a couple quickdraws if you are feeling lazy. Great climb.

Would probably be rated 5.8 if it was in Joshua Tree or Tahquitz. Jul 8, 2016
Eric Mack  
 
This can be climbed and rapped with a 40m. My favorite at the gorge so far. Dec 14, 2017