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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 9,809 total, 68/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The climb starts out down and right from a small cave. Climb past two bolts to a ledge, then transition onto the upper face where the route continues up and right to a rappel station.

Protection

Seven (7) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
 
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
 
Pretty good deck potential from a couple spots and requires trust in your hands and feet especially in the traverse section. Not a great route for someone not comfortable on lead. Aug 7, 2008
Eric Mack  
 
This can be climbed and rapped with a 40m. My favorite at the gorge so far. 3 days ago
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
  5.8
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  5.8
Fun climb and long(ish) for the gorge. Close inspection reveals all the holds needed to cruise it, just take your time. Nice balancy move on the traverse and fun moves above it.

I think it is very well protected, you are able to high clip bolts BEFORE all the crux moves. A fall right above a ledge is never a good idea but with an attentive belayer this route is a very safe lead.

Anchor bolts are placed perfectly so it is possible to anchor with just a couple quickdraws if you are feeling lazy. Great climb.

Would probably be rated 5.8 if it was in Joshua Tree or Tahquitz. Jul 8, 2016
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
With a name like that I just had to give this route a try. I found the route to be solid at the grade - but not a sandbag.. If you take your time holds are everywhere I don't really feel that the route was bolted poorly or unsafe some of the moves are committing and a good belayer is required. With that said I had a ton of fun solo leading this gem. Here are some long arm pics of the climb.






Jul 28, 2015
Is her name Suzi? I hope she is ok. That route looks really cool. Did someone chop a bolt. Jan 29, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8+ PG13
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8+ PG13
My g-friend led this and decked onto the big ledge midway up the route. She was one or two moves to the bolt after the traverse when she fell. Luckily, the rope caught her from going off the ledge. Also, luckily she didn't break her ankle, just a sprain that she was able to walk out on with some help. If you look at the rock it looks like there used to be a bolt protecting the middle of the traverse. Jan 29, 2015
ChadC
San Diego CA
 
ChadC   San Diego CA
 
Great warm up to lead if you climb the 5.9 range. Careful if you tope rope it. I have seen the rope get caught on a rock at the start and when someone fell and they hit the deck. Feb 17, 2013
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.9-
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.9-
Stay true to the route ( no side climbing, no early top out). It felt like a 5.9- during the traverse followed by the up climb. I think this climb is a little easier for taller people :D Oct 28, 2012
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8+
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8+
Clipping the sixth bolt is a bit difficult hanging on to thin holds and slopey feet but it's really fun. Ive dont at least 25 different routes at the gorge and this is so far my favorite. 5.8+ or 5.9-. Aug 23, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
I thought I was ready to lead it. TR'ng this route and figuring out my sequence. Definitely thin, edgy and balancy. Not my strong points. Will continue to work on it :) Aug 17, 2011
bjk
bjk  
Great climb, 5.9 seems a little too hard for this route. Follow the bolts and traverse right on the top section (last 3 bolts) prior to moving up. Head up too early and it will seem much harder Feb 22, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sweet climb! Love the balance, the thin edges and that traverse! Jan 27, 2008
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
As of 2/24/07 the bolts on Suzie's Wild Ride are new and usable. Thanks to whoever got out and replaced the hangers. Feb 24, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Shame about this as it's a fun route, but perhaps this is retribution for Art's actions at El Cajon Mt. ? Jan 25, 2007
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
The first and third bolt on Suzies have been damaged to the point of being unusable. The inconsiderate person who did this left the flattend bolts in the rock. It is to bad some A-whole finds the need to damage a great route and leave the rock with unsitely damaged bolts. Becareful there are other routes at Mission Gorge where there has been bolt damage. Jan 25, 2007