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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Brass Balls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Dave Kemp & Birk Paulson 1959
Page Views: 2,101 total · 23/month
Shared By: MAR on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climbs a wide blocky crack system that narrows down to a thin hands crack (with a ledge for feet) near the top. Crux is moving from a double crack into the the thin hands crack near the top. Good first trad lead. Often top roped.

Location

Located to the right of Nob Job and to the left of the Chimney.

Protection

Small to Medium gear. Two Bolt Anchor at top left.

Photos

Patrick Kaufer
Laguna Hills, CA
  5.8
Patrick Kaufer   Laguna Hills, CA
  5.8
Would not call this 5.4 at all! It gets pretty thin near the top I thought. Oct 7, 2012
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
  5.6
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
  5.6
I agree with Patrick K. that it is harder than 5.4 but certainly not 5.8. It is somewhat thin up top, but really the trick comes from it being awkward and cramped. If you are careful choosing your feet it shouldn't be harder than 5.6. Jun 13, 2014
reubenhwk Hawkins
  5.7+ PG13
reubenhwk Hawkins  
  5.7+ PG13
Closer to 5.8 than 5.4. Aug 23, 2015
Kat M
San Diego, CA
  5.6
Kat M   San Diego, CA
  5.6
Just a warning, when I led this climb last fall, there were bats in the crack near the top. Be sure to look before you shove your fingers in there... I repeated it this past weekend (July 2017) and the bats were gone. But you should still be cautious there, especially if you're leading. Jul 18, 2017
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
  5.4
Michael Lagueux   San Diego, CA
  5.4
Considering that the FA was done in 1959, I think the 5.4 grade is reasonable. Mar 27, 2018

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