Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Dave Kemp & Birk Paulson 1959
Page Views: 2,158 total · 23/month
Shared By: MAR on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climbs a wide blocky crack system that narrows down to a thin hands crack (with a ledge for feet) near the top. Crux is moving from a double crack into the the thin hands crack near the top. Good first trad lead. Often top roped.

Location

Located to the right of Nob Job and to the left of the Chimney.

Protection

Small to Medium gear. Two Bolt Anchor at top left.

Photos

Patrick Kaufer
Laguna Hills, CA
  5.8
Patrick Kaufer   Laguna Hills, CA
  5.8
Would not call this 5.4 at all! It gets pretty thin near the top I thought. Oct 7, 2012
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
  5.6
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
  5.6
I agree with Patrick K. that it is harder than 5.4 but certainly not 5.8. It is somewhat thin up top, but really the trick comes from it being awkward and cramped. If you are careful choosing your feet it shouldn't be harder than 5.6. Jun 13, 2014
reubenhwk Hawkins
  5.7+ PG13
reubenhwk Hawkins  
  5.7+ PG13
Closer to 5.8 than 5.4. Aug 23, 2015
Kat M
San Diego, CA
  5.6
Kat M   San Diego, CA
  5.6
Just a warning, when I led this climb last fall, there were bats in the crack near the top. Be sure to look before you shove your fingers in there... I repeated it this past weekend (July 2017) and the bats were gone. But you should still be cautious there, especially if you're leading. Jul 18, 2017
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
  5.4
Michael Lagueux   San Diego, CA
  5.4
Considering that the FA was done in 1959, I think the 5.4 grade is reasonable. Mar 27, 2018