Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Bill Brunner
Page Views: 4,983 total · 32/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Climb up in to a small cave, then pull the roof out of the cave and into a pod. Pulling the roof is the crux of the route. From the pod the crack widens from thin hands to offwidth.


Standard Rack for protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.


Adam Kimmerly
Adam Kimmerly  
Great route! Difficult, burly, and awkward. A #5 wild country or BD is nice for the wide crack near the top. Small-med cams protect the crux at the bottom well. This thing is definitely harder than 10a and therefore deserves the infamous 5.9+ rating. Jul 29, 2009
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Before I was clibing more regularly I did this route with a great pair of gloves that made the hand jams easier (maybe thats cheating) now I climb much harder but im sort of stuck here in New England, missing Mission Gorge to death!! Dec 5, 2011
Probably the most awkward route I've ever climbed. Jan 19, 2012
Peter V Braun
Santa Cruz, CA
Peter V Braun   Santa Cruz, CA
This is a very fun route, not awkward at all if you figure out what you're doing. One of my favorite routes at MG! Oct 5, 2014
El Cajon, CA
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
What a fun route! We TRed this one awhile back, then led it today. Crux is totally protectable and so it the rest of the route. Small - #1 cams along with a few medium stoppers will do it. You can lug a #3.5 or 4 up to the top if you want to protect the short off width, but good gear right before it. I will climb this one over and over for the next few years since it's wild, airy, and pumpy! May 8, 2015
Adal Bermann
San Diego, CA
Adal Bermann   San Diego, CA
Are you guys serious? 5.9 - 5.10a??
The same rating as Hangman's climb just a little to the left of it, which is basically a walk in the park...
Perhaps someone can share some beta on this climb that features an almost footless mantle around a roof and up a crack in a dihedral? Dec 5, 2015
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
Adal, crack climbs tend to be rated a little lower than face, since they were often put up earlier, and because even if the moves feel harder, it is also harder to fall off (i.e. a 5.9 climber could thrutch their way up this and make it feel like a 10b; less likely they would make it up 10a face climb).

This is one of my favorite climbs at MG. Some beta: don't wear a helmet! Apr 8, 2016
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
harder to fall off? The hardest part of the route is the beginning where it is extremely easy to fall off, ya know, the roof with the hand crack to the big jug where you have to hang on with no feet. The move into the roof is harder than any move on hangmans. Once you get past the roof it might be difficult to fall out. but up to that point its plenty easy. I did it on lead and then a lap on TR and feel confident that beginning move is no 5.9+ unless we are sticking to the mantra that 5.9+ is always harder than 10a. Apr 6, 2017
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
5.9+ must always be harder than 10a! Jun 2, 2017