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Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Bill Brunner
Page Views: 4,499 total, 31/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb up in to a small cave, then pull the roof out of the cave and into a pod. Pulling the roof is the crux of the route. From the pod the crack widens from thin hands to offwidth.

Protection

Standard Rack for protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.

Photos

Safty Third
San Diego, CA
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
5.9+ must always be harder than 10a! Jun 2, 2017
alex carey
  5.10b
alex carey  
  5.10b
harder to fall off? The hardest part of the route is the beginning where it is extremely easy to fall off, ya know, the roof with the hand crack to the big jug where you have to hang on with no feet. The move into the roof is harder than any move on hangmans. Once you get past the roof it might be difficult to fall out. but up to that point its plenty easy. I did it on lead and then a lap on TR and feel confident that beginning move is no 5.9+ unless we are sticking to the mantra that 5.9+ is always harder than 10a. Apr 6, 2017
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9+
Adal, crack climbs tend to be rated a little lower than face, since they were often put up earlier, and because even if the moves feel harder, it is also harder to fall off (i.e. a 5.9 climber could thrutch their way up this and make it feel like a 10b; less likely they would make it up 10a face climb).


This is one of my favorite climbs at MG. Some beta: don't wear a helmet! Apr 8, 2016
Adal Bermann
San Diego, California
  5.10c
Adal Bermann   San Diego, California
  5.10c
Are you guys serious? 5.9 - 5.10a??
The same rating as Hangman's climb just a little to the left of it, which is basically a walk in the park...
Perhaps someone can share some beta on this climb that features an almost footless mantle around a roof and up a crack in a dihedral? Dec 5, 2015
Winterparkmg
El Cajon, CA
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
What a fun route! We TRed this one awhile back, then led it today. Crux is totally protectable and so it the rest of the route. Small - #1 cams along with a few medium stoppers will do it. You can lug a #3.5 or 4 up to the top if you want to protect the short off width, but good gear right before it. I will climb this one over and over for the next few years since it's wild, airy, and pumpy! May 8, 2015
Peter V Braun
Fremont, CA
 
Peter V Braun   Fremont, CA
 
This is a very fun route, not awkward at all if you figure out what you're doing. One of my favorite routes at MG! Oct 5, 2014
AlexK
  5.9+
AlexK  
  5.9+
Probably the most awkward route I've ever climbed. Jan 19, 2012
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Before I was clibing more regularly I did this route with a great pair of gloves that made the hand jams easier (maybe thats cheating) now I climb much harder but im sort of stuck here in New England, missing Mission Gorge to death!! Dec 5, 2011
Adam Kimmerly
  5.9+
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.9+
Great route! Difficult, burly, and awkward. A #5 wild country or BD is nice for the wide crack near the top. Small-med cams protect the crux at the bottom well. This thing is definitely harder than 10a and therefore deserves the infamous 5.9+ rating. Jul 29, 2009