Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,045 total · 15/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Nice crack through rough rock. On the wide hands side. Link this up with Crack of Dust. In fact, you could probably climb them as one long pitch if you mind the gear right.

After you get up this consider setting a TR on Cave Crack off of the bolted anchor (climber's left) for Never Intended. Cave Crack is an old-school 5.9 chimney. It starts just left of the Crack of Dust anchor. Great Steck-Salathe training!


Basically a second pitch of Crack of Dust but much less slick. Climb the crack to the right of the anchor.


Cams, hand to wide hand size. Gear anchor. Walk off way left toward The Blocks.


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Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
Stiff start followed by perfect hands to the top. Jan 25, 2011
Bouldery start, but the rough interior of the crack gives good traction. Tape your hands for this one. Jan 21, 2012
San Diego, Ca
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
Possible to do tapeless, but only if you don't really value the skkin on your knuckles and the back of your hands. Jan 21, 2012
Brad W
San Diego
Brad W   San Diego
A few pumpy moves off the ground, but great friction and solid jams. Eases up pretty quickly, but stays fun. My favorite crack at the gorge currently, don't believe it took me this long to get on it. Bring a BD3 for the start, this crack takes pro anywhere. Apr 1, 2012
Cassidy Anderson
San Diego, CA
Cassidy Anderson   San Diego, CA
Great crack featuring some really good rock quality. Lots of friction not your typical mission gorge slick rock. Very similar to the crux of "Battle of the Bulge" on "Puppy Dome" Tuolomne Meadows,CA. A #2 c4 will protect this crack. there is a small section near the bottom that would take a #3 but it is only a couple of feet with bomber #2's on either side. However if you are building an Anchor at the top a #3 is useful. you could also belay at the bolted anchor of "Never Intended." If you do this be sure to place a directional for your follower. Mar 19, 2014
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
Fun and pretty cruiser if you're comfortable with hand jams. And if you're not, this is an excellent climb to practice them on! Aug 1, 2018