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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Thomas Compare, 1977, FL: Art Messier
Page Views: 2,306 total, 17/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Quite sustained and steep sport climbing leads to easy slab climbing. Bring some finger strength along for this one.

Location

Directly above Crack of Dust. Effectively a second pitch for any climb ending on the ledge above Crack of Dust.

Walk off left and then follow the 3rd class descent for the climbs at the far left of the climbing area.

Protection

Bolts. Bolt anchor (no rap rings).

Photos

- No Photos -
steverett
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
There's a bolt anchor w/rap rings on top (in between this and Quack of Ducks). You can rap to the ground w/a 60m from there. Feb 6, 2017
Just a note, Thomas Compare passed away two years ago in Seattle. I climbed here in 50's as a teenager when a lot of the early routes were put up. I also climbed with Thomas when he lived in San Diego and owned a small climbing shop in P.B. I just happened upon this site and saw Thomas's name, so I thought if any of you folks knew Thomas you might like to know what happened to him. He was a very cool guy and would help anyone who needed help. Dec 2, 2015
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
A very good climb for MG...can't believe I never got on it before. If this was at the base, it'd see a lot of traffic. Good rock, good moves..as with most good MG climbs...its just too damn short :) Apr 9, 2015
Elush
CA
Elush   CA
Be Careful attempting to rap from the top of this climb, to the bottom of Crack of Dust. High Potential for rope to become stuck... Mar 19, 2014
off white  
 
Ron's spot on, this was put up by Thomas Compare way back there, Art just put bolts in on the old top rope, much the same as he did on One Step Beyond, which he renamed "Escapade". Feb 27, 2014
wesnice
Brevard, NC
 
wesnice   Brevard, NC
 
I found rap rings at the top and the rope made it to the base of Crack of Dust....tried both the mantle move to the right of the second bolt and climbing the shallow corner left of the second bolt and they were both interesting. Fun climb... Aug 14, 2013
ron amick
poway, ca
ron amick   poway, ca
FA Art Messier? I dont think so, this route was put up in 1977 Jan 3, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
I tried to flash it and I would definitely say it's one of the hardest 10b's I've attempted at the gorge, at least the sequence my partner and I were trying (BETA- at the second bolt, working right and hanging off the flat mantle, over the orange bulge, before high stepping and rocking on the left foot).

Very well protected though with little to hit, a leader should feel very comfortable falling on this. And it has a decent amount of the grippy orange rock too. Jun 12, 2011