Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Eric Beck, 1964
Page Views: 5,873 total · 38/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Thin flaring crack to the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride. Crux is pulling over the top with dirt for handholds. Feet can come out of the crack toward the top to smear. Bolt anchor at the top, but far back so extend it with your climbing rope. More climbs start from the top-out ledge.


To the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride by about 50 feet.


Med-large nuts, #2 & .75 camalot is what I use. Save a .75 camalot w/ extension runner for the top.


david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
When you get to the base of the main wall go left for 150 feet. You will see the obvious crack to the left of the Owl. The finish on this climb is slick as only Mission Gorge can be. Place an red alien near top of crack for finish. Climb is short and very protectable however, there is a ledge about a third of the way up that you could easily hit if you fall. Apr 5, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Real sweet climb. One o' these days I'll have to lead the durn thing. Jan 27, 2008
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
I agree the dirty finish is the best part. May 28, 2011
Encinitas, CA
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
Nice short fun crack climb. Yep it is dirty up top. Remember to wear helmet on this particular route as there are so many loose rocks up on the ledge of the route. Aug 17, 2011
San Diego
ChrisRoyHarman   San Diego
You can use 3-4 cams on this route; BD C4 .4 .5 .75 & #1. The top of the route is extremely dirty with loose rocks, wear a helmet for this route. Sep 11, 2011
claudio ricardez
claudio ricardez   ESCONDIDO
I hit that ledge and luckily only sprained my ankle. Make sure you use correct length runners above the ledge. I should have used a shorter runner to avoid this mishap. May 21, 2012
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace. Sep 21, 2012
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Crack I'd definetly dusty/dirty. Watch the move as you pull out of the crack to the false topout. Great climb though and worth the mouthful of dirt. Oct 13, 2012
el cajon, CA
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
Good climbing... Tie into the quack of ducks for additional crack climbing. Oct 28, 2012
Don't forget to have a helmet when you're pulling the rope, due to loose rocks/dirt up top

The fixed carabiners mentioned by ChaseLeoncini in 2012 have apparently been refreshed - it's now one rap ring, one chain, and one fixed biner, all in good condition. Jun 20, 2014
Southern California
  5.10a PG13
J--   Southern California
  5.10a PG13
I couldn’t believe that I couldn’t finish my lead up this crack!!! Maybe because it had just rained and the route was a little slimy (yes this is an excuse); I got almost to the top, slipped, and sprained my ankle. My vote is that this route is 5.10a, unless I’m missing some un-obvious yet bomber foot placement that makes this climb a 5.8. Anyone else think it’s harder than 5.8? Dec 19, 2014
El Cajon, CA
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
Sorry J---, but while MG can get negativo on the traction and grip after rainy times (dirt and slime can jam things up and make life interesting), I vote that this stays a solid 5.8. At the top today, I belly flopped my way through a trough of DG dust and guano. So that sucked, sure. But I was just making it harder than it needed to be. I've led this one three times and climbed it more. It's fun and a pumpy warm up. But still only a 5.8 in my book. Go check it out in the fall. Maybe the summer traffic will clean er up for ya and it'll be fun again!!! May 8, 2015
Southern California
  5.10a PG13
J--   Southern California
  5.10a PG13
Point well taken Winterparkmg, And I will make it back to take another crack at crack of dust. Jul 25, 2015
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
Yup, it's no gimme at 5.8 but no way is it a 5.9. What will help your lead head on this one is to head over to Middle Earth and lead Ork, then come back and lead Crack of Dust. Yo 'ol Crack of Dust may even feel 5.7 after that one! Oct 1, 2017