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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Eric Beck, 1964
Page Views: 5,307 total, 37/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Apr 1, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Thin flaring crack to the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride. Crux is pulling over the top with dirt for handholds. Feet can come out of the crack toward the top to smear. Bolt anchor at the top, but far back so extend it with your climbing rope. More climbs start from the top-out ledge.

Location

To the right of Mariah / Suzie's Wild Ride by about 50 feet.

Protection

Med-large nuts, #2 & .75 camalot is what I use. Save a .75 camalot w/ extension runner for the top.
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
Yup, it's no gimme at 5.8 but no way is it a 5.9. What will help your lead head on this one is to head over to Middle Earth and lead Ork, then come back and lead Crack of Dust. Yo 'ol Crack of Dust may even feel 5.7 after that one! Oct 1, 2017
J--
Southern California
5.10a PG13
J--   Southern California
5.10a PG13
Point well taken Winterparkmg, And I will make it back to take another crack at crack of dust. Jul 25, 2015
Winterparkmg
El Cajon, CA
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
Sorry J---, but while MG can get negativo on the traction and grip after rainy times (dirt and slime can jam things up and make life interesting), I vote that this stays a solid 5.8. At the top today, I belly flopped my way through a trough of DG dust and guano. So that sucked, sure. But I was just making it harder than it needed to be. I've led this one three times and climbed it more. It's fun and a pumpy warm up. But still only a 5.8 in my book. Go check it out in the fall. Maybe the summer traffic will clean er up for ya and it'll be fun again!!! May 8, 2015
J--
Southern California
5.10a PG13
J--   Southern California
5.10a PG13
I couldn’t believe that I couldn’t finish my lead up this crack!!! Maybe because it had just rained and the route was a little slimy (yes this is an excuse); I got almost to the top, slipped, and sprained my ankle. My vote is that this route is 5.10a, unless I’m missing some un-obvious yet bomber foot placement that makes this climb a 5.8. Anyone else think it’s harder than 5.8? Dec 19, 2014
lifeblack  
 
Don't forget to have a helmet when you're pulling the rope, due to loose rocks/dirt up top

The fixed carabiners mentioned by ChaseLeoncini in 2012 have apparently been refreshed - it's now one rap ring, one chain, and one fixed biner, all in good condition. Jun 20, 2014
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.8+
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.8+
Good climbing... Tie into the quack of ducks for additional crack climbing. Oct 28, 2012
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Crack I'd definetly dusty/dirty. Watch the move as you pull out of the crack to the false topout. Great climb though and worth the mouthful of dirt. Oct 13, 2012
ChaseLeoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8+
ChaseLeoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8+
Warning: the 3 bolt anchor on the wall atop this route (or at the start of 'Never Intended') has two fixed carabiners that have attained severe rope damage due to lowering off of them. Use caution when deciding to use these or replace. Sep 21, 2012
claudio ricardez
ESCONDIDO
claudio ricardez   ESCONDIDO
I hit that ledge and luckily only sprained my ankle. Make sure you use correct length runners above the ledge. I should have used a shorter runner to avoid this mishap. May 21, 2012
ChrisRoyHarman
San Diego
  5.9
ChrisRoyHarman   San Diego
  5.9
You can use 3-4 cams on this route; BD C4 .4 .5 .75 & #1. The top of the route is extremely dirty with loose rocks, wear a helmet for this route. Sep 11, 2011
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Nice short fun crack climb. Yep it is dirty up top. Remember to wear helmet on this particular route as there are so many loose rocks up on the ledge of the route. Aug 17, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
I agree the dirty finish is the best part. May 28, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Real sweet climb. One o' these days I'll have to lead the durn thing. Jan 27, 2008
david baker
jamul, ca
david baker   jamul, ca
When you get to the base of the main wall go left for 150 feet. You will see the obvious crack to the left of the Owl. The finish on this climb is slick as only Mission Gorge can be. Place an red alien near top of crack for finish. Climb is short and very protectable however, there is a ledge about a third of the way up that you could easily hit if you fall. Apr 5, 2006