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Routes in Main Wall

Absorbine Junior TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blocks Direct, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Blocks, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buckwheat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caterpillar T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cave Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken fart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack of Dust T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empathy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Exit Stage Left T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Mission Gorge Traverse. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Fingerrip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallwas Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
General Dynamics T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hangman's Climb S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Wall TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intrinsic Value TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knob Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob Job Bypass T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Laundry Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Overture TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lilley's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mariah T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Defeet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mickey Finn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misbegotten C3+
Mission Gorge Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Never Intended S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obverse from the Gap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prime Directive T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quack of Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quantum Leap S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rectum Roof T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock On T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock On Right S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Suzie's Wild Ride S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sympathy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thumb Aid Climb, The C2
Thumb, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapeze T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Unnatural Act TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wallflower TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wasp, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,523 total · 11/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A couple of bolts lead past tricky climbing to a finishing manlte move. The climb is slippery and the crux down low. Be solid at the grade if leading so you don't pitch before you make the first clip.

Location

Starts on the far left side of a large ledge on the Main Wall. Right of The Crack of Dust, scramble up to this ledge (10'). The climb starts just left of The Owl Crack. Consider using it as an approach pitch for Never Intended (5.10b).

Protection

A couple of quickdraws for the lower section. The first clip is kinda high and hard to reach. Be careful. Some gear is likely to be found before the mantle. Had to bail right due to a TR in the way, so I can't say exactly what the gear will be.

Photos

RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
TR'd. I love the beginning of this route. Finding little edges for my feet and balancing my body to move to the left side of the rock. I did not think I could figure out my own little sequence as I thought I may be too short for this climb! I am so glad I took the time to really look for the little footholds and finger crimps. Definitely worth doing if there's already a top rope on The Owl. Aug 17, 2011
Brad W
San Diego
Brad W   San Diego
Encountered a rattly block (toaster oven sized) near the top of this, on the little ledge before you finish up. Since it's on a pretty popular climb in the gorge it'd probably be gone already if it was truly loose, but figured a chalk X couldn't hurt. I would definitely avoid putting pro in behind it if leading. Oct 18, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Yes, the first move the the first bolt is committing, but truly moving to the anchors is pretty runout past the second bolt. Pitching off the last move will result in a pretty serious fall and there is absolutley a spot for a .75/.5 Camalot before making this move which wouldve left me much more confident. Aug 17, 2012
Brett Shumate
San Diego, CA
  5.9
Brett Shumate   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Moving to the anchors is definitely runout. A red C4 fits well in the crack before the last move. You can also keep from falling off the ledge if you do pitch before the first bolt by placing a 3.5 or a 4 in the lower section of the Owl crack before heading up. Exciting lead! Oct 11, 2014
steverett
San Diego, CA
5.9+
steverett   San Diego, CA
5.9+
If you're leading w/out gear, the upper runout will be less scary if you go around to the right at the top (finish on The Owl) instead of straight over or left; still runout but much easier climbing Apr 8, 2016

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