Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Wise, Jim Patterson 1972
Page Views: 2,682 total · 28/month
Shared By: saltlick on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Interesting and technical face climb between The Wasp and Lilley's Delight. Start up the bolted face 20' to the right of The Wasp, following the bolt line closely as it moves gently left and up...too far to the right and you encounter easier terrain near Lilley's Delight (5.8); too far left and you find yourself on the thinner and slippery-er Master of Dafeet (5.11). Bring your partner up after you and tackle Sympathy or Prime Directive next for the best "multi-pitch" climb at the Gorge!

Location

Approach via the Main Wall trail. Route is just above and right of the point where the trail reaches the wall.

Protection

5 bolts, bolt anchor

Photos

sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.10b
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.10b
Sweet balanced tip-toe moves keep you moving through thin features on decent rock quality for mission gorge. Oct 21, 2012
J T
J T  
This climb is very hight dependent.. anyone shorter than 5'5" at the least, is going to have a sketchy lead.. Feb 1, 2013
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
  5.10b/c
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
  5.10b/c
Did this climb yesterday, didn't see a fifth bolt like it says but the last 15 foot (possibly where another bolt is missing) is 5.7 climbing. Great climb. Nearly no feet makes it difficult but also easy to see where that one and only foot placement actually is. Mar 28, 2013
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
I found this route to be quite fun and solid for the grade. here are some pics of me solo leading this cool route.



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Having fun I know I did.. Jul 28, 2015
Justin Bruce  
 
I do not know if I have been doing this route correctly...I start to the right and clip easy first bolt and thenn I'm following the arete and clip second bolt. Then I move on to the face with far left leg, and right hand on a little Gaston like hold, push out and left hand on a nice little slope, right hand moves onto a bomb little ramp, do high foot and push to third bolt (crux) and then continue upnon the face..does this seem accurate at all? Mar 13, 2017
Mackenan Grassi
  5.10b
Mackenan Grassi  
  5.10b
The route description is spot on. The climb starts on the face and trends gently left as you go up. It is very easy to go too far right and find yourself on Lilley's Delight at either the start or finish. The climb is much more sustained when you stay as true as possible to the bolt line. Justin, you're definitely starting on Lilley's. ChaseLeoncini's comment sounds like finishing on Lilley's. Mar 13, 2017