Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,255 total · 11/month
Shared By: charley graham on Jan 7, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A right facing enduro corner with a roof at the end which is just sandy enough to make you over-grip and pump out. There is a good reason to go for it at the roof...

Location

Between MC's Hammer and Nurse Ratchet at the Cliffs of Insanity.

Protection

A lot of red camalots, a few green camalots, and a couple smaller pieces.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I have no clue how this route isn't considered a classic. There is a little bit of poor rock at the very beginning then it's tight #1 camalot / baggy .75 camalot the whole way up to the roof. #1 at the roof and a .75 past it get you to the chains. Awesome climbing. Very similar to Quarter of a Man, both in size and that there is relief on edges outside the crack. Get on it! Sick line. Oct 24, 2011
D-Storm
  5.12-
D-Storm  
  5.12-
It's a fun route with a crisp crack and a great finish, but in comparison to many other routes at this cliff, its sandy nature precludes it from classic status. A slightly harder version of Layaway Plan, black Metolious cams would be the gear of choice here, I think, though the tight red Camolots were OK, with a wide .75 placement here and there. Apr 25, 2012