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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Aid, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 5th March 2002
Page Views: 2,934 total · 23/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A small tower that gives easy pickings for those who collect tower ascents.

P1) Climb grooves on the east side of the tower to the notch. 5.7.
P2) Follow a line of bolts trending left to the summit. C1.

Location

The obvious blocky tower located at the point of the Cliffs of Insanity just down left of the Wiggins route . A photo on page 158 of the Bloom Indian Creek guide book shows the tower.

Protection

A few cams for first pitch.

Photos

mtoensing
Boulder
  5.7 A0+
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.7 A0+
Watch out when pulling your rope. We got our rope slung on a big block in the dihedral. Ended up pulling the block down right on top of us and it landed straight on my pack. Fun little tower but what a hike! Geez!! Mar 7, 2011
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
The first pitch is easy and the 2nd is indeed a bolt ladder but of 14 or so protection bolts only 2 have hangers. The rest require rivet hangers or stoppers with a cable that can be slid down. Mar 23, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
We left all the hangers on the FA in 2002. Someone has removed them ,typical of some of todays climbers. Mar 23, 2014
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
So this thing needs 12 hangers? How are the anchors ? I'm wrapping up the trail up the prow " ie" the original trail.. an this tower is one of the first things you come to .. The trail has been slow going but should be Dunn this fall. Cheers DF Jul 16, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Thanks for the trailwork DF. And yes, there are 12 or so bolts without hangers, you could definitely do it with less and leapfrog. I think I had about 8 BD nuts that I used as rivet hangers. I recall the anchors being good bolts but a nest of tat. Jul 17, 2014
slim

  5.7 C1
slim    
  5.7 C1
anybody know what the hanger situation is these days? Mar 22, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
As the bolts are ( Ithink ) still there one should be able to do with wires etc ... or be nice and take some hangers and 3/8 nuts....just in case.. Mar 22, 2016
slim

  5.7 C1
slim    
  5.7 C1
cool, thanks, good to know. would an 80m rope get you down from the top, or are there anchors at the top of the 1st pitch? trying to see if i can hobble up the hill with as little as possible. thanks. Mar 22, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
Well as you see its 14 years since I climbed the tower .. so not too sure about details .. But I do not think you will have any problems getting down with a 80m rope .. The first pitch is easy so all you need is gear for the bolt ladder ... All the Best from the UK.. Mar 23, 2016
slim

  5.7 C1
slim    
  5.7 C1
a quick conditions update; due to moving/poor planning/etc i didn't round up any hangers prior to climbing. the last pitch still only has 2 hangers (the first one off the ledge, and one about midway up. there are nuts and washers on all of the bolts, but it is handy to have a little wrench to loosen and tighten the nuts, depending on how fat the wires are on your stoppers, etc. when i did it, the wind was blasting through the gap, and even with cinching down the stoppers, a handful blew completely off the bolts when i was above them.

the sleeve of the last bolt, protecting easy free moves, sticks out about an inch or so, but the moves are easy and a small cord/webbing can slipknot the bolt pretty well. anchors were upgraded w/ fresh webbing and a locker.

i rapped down to the northwest (climbers right when looking at bolt ladder) with an 80 fairly easily. rope pull was a little iffy, but worked out ok.

really fun little tower, and very worth doing. if there are people anywhere near the base you will want to be very very careful about loose rock coming down. Apr 4, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.7 C1
Well done Slim ... Glad you enjoyed it ... All The Best Paul Apr 4, 2016

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