Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 790 total · 7/month
Shared By: Sinner on Dec 6, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a nice battle for OW lovers. The crux is transitioning into the off-width from the roof. After the roof, there is a nice section of arm-bars/stacks until the crack gradually narrows to fists/hands. I don't imagine this baby sees a lot of ascents but there is a good anchor at the top as of 08.

Location

This is the first route around the corner from Wiggins 2. Easy to pick out by the OW roof right off the deck.

Protection

up to 5 inches

Photos

m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Is this lobotomy? Dec 8, 2009
slim    
i think lobotomy is one crack to the left (around the iron lady tower) of this crack. this crack is left of wiggins 1. Dec 15, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
The OW in the picture is definitely not Lobotomy. It looks like it is probably #21 in the new guide book? Sep 20, 2010