Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steven Lucarelli
Page Views: 1,623 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 11, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very surprised that this route hasn't been done till now! Starts with an easy offwidth that quickly turns to big hands in a left facing corner. From a comfortable stance continue up a tight corner with perfect hands until it is possible to step right below a large flake. Climb an overhanging crack on the right side of the flake that goes from big hands to fists to hand stacks before topping out on a block thats sitting on top of the flake (this block may be loose so it might be advisable to jam around it instead of pulling on it?).

Location

About 50 yards right of Broken Brains. If you get to Lobotomy you just passed it. Look for a large flake up high thats about a foot thick.

Protection

(1)1.0, (2)2.0, (3)3.0, (1)3.5, (3)4.0 (one old two new works best), (2)5.0 all in Camalots. There is a two bolt anchor with chains. Sorry about the third bolt, I couldn't get it to tighten down but I plan on going back and removing it.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
great route! the sed block's at the top are cleaned off.. i jammed them an they shifted in to a bad position so bomb's away .... clean as can be now sick climb.. Apr 14, 2013