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Offwidth Your Head
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fairy Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gilder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nurse Rachet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10+ T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | Steven Lucarelli |
| Page Views: | 1,558 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Very surprised that this route hasn't been done till now! Starts with an easy offwidth that quickly turns to big hands in a left facing corner. From a comfortable stance continue up a tight corner with perfect hands until it is possible to step right below a large flake. Climb an overhanging crack on the right side of the flake that goes from big hands to fists to hand stacks before topping out on a block thats sitting on top of the flake (this block may be loose so it might be advisable to jam around it instead of pulling on it?).
DURANGO