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Offwidth Your Head
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Beginning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inigo Montoya T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kelley Route 1 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Memories of Seth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Fingerd Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Steven Lucarelli |
| Page Views: | 2,269 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities!
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Very surprised that this route hasn't been done till now! Starts with an easy offwidth that quickly turns to big hands in a left facing corner. From a comfortable stance continue up a tight corner with perfect hands until it is possible to step right below a large flake. Climb an overhanging crack on the right side of the flake that goes from big hands to fists to hand stacks before topping out on a block thats sitting on top of the flake (this block may be loose so it might be advisable to jam around it instead of pulling on it?).
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