Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,866 total · 20/month
Shared By: Devin Fin on Nov 19, 2013 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very long route that has tons of variation. The route starts in tight hands and quickly widens to wide hands or fists. Climb the splitter up to a wide pod that you can squeeze into (crux). Go straight up the flared crack then cross the face of the broken pillar to a crack on the left, climb this for 10' and then switch back into the right crack--bring runners or run it out until you can place in the right crack to avoid rope drag. The top half of the route follows this crack which is flared and varies in size greatly, and a vertical jug flake appears on the left side. Place gear either in the flare and extend it or behind the flake, but be wary of the rock quality. Climb this feature for a long while until you top out on a ledge with the anchor. The anchor is a bolt and piton with chains. Use two ropes to get down. 

The first half of the climb is amazing splitter crack climbing, once you get to the squeeze pod the climbing gets awkward and changes in character drastically. Likewise, the gear in the splitter is fantastic, but much less bomber in the upper half.

Location

About 100' right of Broken Brain, this is the obvious splitter running into the ground that has a large pod and flake above. The route continues up past the flake for a long while to chains on a ledge that are not visible from the ground.

Protection

Large rack with many runners and 2 ropes

1-2x #.3-#1s

2x #2s

4-6x #3s

1-2x #4s

1x #5 or #6 for the squeeze pod

Slings 

2 Ropes

Photos