Avg: 3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m)|
|Page Views:||1,866 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Devin Fin on Nov 19, 2013 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Very long route that has tons of variation. The route starts in tight hands and quickly widens to wide hands or fists. Climb the splitter up to a wide pod that you can squeeze into (crux). Go straight up the flared crack then cross the face of the broken pillar to a crack on the left, climb this for 10' and then switch back into the right crack--bring runners or run it out until you can place in the right crack to avoid rope drag. The top half of the route follows this crack which is flared and varies in size greatly, and a vertical jug flake appears on the left side. Place gear either in the flare and extend it or behind the flake, but be wary of the rock quality. Climb this feature for a long while until you top out on a ledge with the anchor. The anchor is a bolt and piton with chains. Use two ropes to get down.
The first half of the climb is amazing splitter crack climbing, once you get to the squeeze pod the climbing gets awkward and changes in character drastically. Likewise, the gear in the splitter is fantastic, but much less bomber in the upper half.
About 100' right of Broken Brain, this is the obvious splitter running into the ground that has a large pod and flake above. The route continues up past the flake for a long while to chains on a ledge that are not visible from the ground.