Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Steven Lucarelli, Carrie Finn (Oct. 2010)
Page Views: 2,184 total · 22/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Funny Farm is another great line, adding to the growing list at the Cliffs of Insanity. Start with fingers in a corner that gradually tapers down to tips with pods and then nothing. Clip a bolt on the right face and make suprisingly tricky and sequential moves to get through the crux. Continue up hands and big hands for another 25' until it is possible to stem out right to a nice finger crack on the right wall. Steep fingers with occasional pods for your hands and feet will take you to the anchor. This route may be a classic, check it out.

Location

This route is located 4 feet left of Iocane Powder's start.

Protection

The following gear is in Camalots:(1).02, (2).03, (3).04, (4).05, (1).75, (2)#2, (2)#3, and there is one bolt. Anchor is two bolts with chains. Save some of the small stuff for the top.

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A great route with a unique crux! Destined to be a classic! Oct 18, 2010
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
First off, definitely a unique and fun route! Kind of a cross between Zion and Red Rocks style.

The rack recommendation is a bit off! I was glad to have even smaller cams (.1 Camalot, 00 TCU, etc) and most people will want (3) .75 Camalots, for sure.

This route will get wicked sandy after rain. It was absolutely filthy when I first went up it...not free-climbable. After a serious brushing, it was quite enjoyable. Kudos! Oct 14, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Got the onsight, but had to fight with apx 20lbs of sand!...Fun route Sep 23, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
do it everytime im up there, zion rock style! Apr 28, 2016