All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cliffs of Insanity

Pit of Despair

Name: Pit of Despair
Rating: 3.0

5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Back to the Beginning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Battle of Wits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Inigo Montoya T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
	Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kelley Route 1 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Luchador T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Memories of Seth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Six Fingerd Man T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Skip to the End T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unknown OW on far right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wind Rider, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA:	Jerome Smart
Page Views:	1,907 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Jerome on Jun 11, 2015
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

You will never escape the Pit of Despair, the chains are far too thick!
Offset splitter! Initial 25' squeeze chimney leads to a good ledge. It could be wise to bring your belayer up to here for the next bit. Bouldery face move past a bolt leads to nice rest. Followed by desperate tips move. Then sweet fingers to pod, followed by off fingers sprint to the anchor ledge.
Torturous!
Second pitch from hands to squeeze (to rim?) has let to be climbed....