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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,532 total, 42/month
Shared By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An easier version of Ruby's Cafe. Changing corners on purple and green camalots.

Protection

Mostly Purple and Green Camalots. Honestly #1.5 friends work best

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Mirroring Ryan's comments:

4 nice for start
1.5 under the roof
.5s to the rest out right
2-3 .75s to the chains

Great Route Apr 1, 2016
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
A #4 is really nice for the opening moves. Other than that the rest of the crack is .5's all the way to the lyback under the chains. Pop in your last .5 from the bail out ledge to the right 2/3rds up. From there 2 .75's is perfect to get to the chains. The lyback feels easy after the changing .5 corners. Mar 3, 2016
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12
Absolutely amazing!!! Stacks for days! Oct 16, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I wish I had a #4 for the opening fist crack. Also I thought the purples seemed a bit loose for extended portions; I'd bring closer to 6 greens instead of 2-3! Nov 3, 2014
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
God created puzzle factory to prove that everybody has a bad size! Man this thing is fun! Oct 20, 2014
Transitions between corners are the cruxes. A bit of a puzzle factory for sure. Hope to get a red point next time around. Apr 20, 2014
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
If you try and plug purples in all the way you could die...or nearly so like Dood who got photo'd ripping Blue cams out of Rubys...that's about where the resemblance ends. 1.5 friends work best just like yellow stuffs into Ruby best. Dec 27, 2013
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
Purple Camalots are key. 1.5 Friends might be spot on, too, but I think less so than the .5 Camalots. The crack is mostly too tight for .75 Camalots or red Metolious TCUs and too big for orange TCUs. Apr 25, 2012
Scott's gear beta is spot on. Fat fingies would make this easier than Ruby's and the guys nickname is Tank, so... Apr 9, 2012
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
 
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
 
I agree Chuck

Comparing Puzzle Factory to Ruby's is a bit of a stretch. Aug 26, 2011
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something? Aug 25, 2011
Purple camalots go in well almost all the way up the route. Bring 6-8 Purple Camalots and 2-3 Green. Apr 1, 2010
slim

  5.12c
slim    
  5.12c
i imagine there are folks that would call this a hard version of ruby's. when you get on this route, gravity literally snaps your head back and you have to hold on for dear life. May 26, 2009
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
I would be hesitant to call this an easier version of Ruby's since it bears little resemblance to that route other than length. Cool route though. May 23, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
 
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
 
OW to tough big fingers to nohands rest to enduro layback to finish.

Excellent route!

I agree that 1.5 friends work best. I took a bunch of 0.75 Camelots and they were tight prior to the rest but went in well for the finishing layback. Apr 22, 2009
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I think the FA is Scott Carson. Apr 13, 2009