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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Devin Fin
Page Views: 4,770 total, 49/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Awesome offwidth that turns into a squeeze about half way up.

Location

Right of Iocane Powder ~20 ft.

Protection

A BD #5 and a couple #6's will get you half way there. Then big bros or run it out to the chains.
Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
Kent look at the FA picks .. and you will see one orange an one yellow tcu out right about half up. place runners on them to reduce the drag... Nov 8, 2012
Kent Pease
Littleton, Colorado
Kent Pease   Littleton, Colorado
Good clean fun.

A clarification on gear: About 80% of the way up the climb there is a supplemental crack inside where you can get in gear ranging from #2 to #4 Camalots and maybe down to a #1 Camalot. Note that the upper most part of the crack where it exits onto the main face defines a block that could displace, so lower placements are better. I did not find any spots for finger sized gear. Jun 4, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
i had a rad time at this wall this spring /summer and put up a number of routes. this was one of the coolest. half way up you can place a finger cam or two and gun it for the top... if you fit. Jan 14, 2010