Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 8,474 total · 56/month
Shared By: Eric Whitbeck on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The book describes the route as thin hands to tips, but it really goes thin hands to tips and then gradually widens to big hands. There is one drilled pin in the middle, right before the tips.

Protection

tips to big hands

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Indian Creek has long been well-known for having quite a few "easy" 5.12-'s. Way Rambo, Nine Lives, Coyne Crack, Sig Sauer, Dos Hermanos, Annunaki, Middle Crack, Gurka, and so on. If you are looking for one of these easier routes to get that 5.12- crack on your ticklist, THEN STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM THIS ROUTE!

Excellent route, though, all the same. Apr 21, 2009
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
probably the perfect 12- benchmark at the creek. not the easiest, not the hardest, but surely the best. 5 star mega classic for sure - you need 2 ropes to get off, there are no ledges, the position is unparalleled, the climbing is brilliant. the best pitch i have climbed at the creek, and possibly the best pitch i have ever climbed period. Nov 28, 2011
Yes, this one is a beaut! Apr 9, 2012
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
In my mind tied with Sinestra for best route in the creek! May 29, 2014
AL .
UT
  5.12-
AL .   UT
  5.12-
So good!! Hard sections for the people with big hands and for the people with tiny fingers. No escaping a crux of one kind of another. Loved it! May 14, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Definitely the toughest 12- Ive been on in the Creek. Its good and sooo long

Good hands don't come till the anchor

Seemed:
45-50 feet 1s
25 ft .75
10 ft boulder problem at pin
15 ft .5
20 ft .75 to 1s
Good Hands to the anchor Apr 7, 2016
Robert Daniel.
Denver, CO
Robert Daniel.   Denver, CO
I feel like I've climbed a fair number of 12-'s at the Creek, and this one felt like the hardest (and one of, if not the best).. Anybody have one(s) they think are harder y porque? Jul 19, 2017
Josh Janes    
 
Fuel Injected Hardbody, Steel Pulse (11+), Comic Relief, Mondo, and Wiggins II are on my short list for sandbagged creek 12-. Oct 24, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
5star mega...glad to hear some hardmen say it's tough for the grade...I concur....benchmark all time splitter. Is there any splitters this long anywhere ? We had a 100m lead line and none left after lowering Dec 30, 2017
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
 
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
 
My 80m made it with no directionals and having the belayer move uphill 10-15 feet. Apr 1, 2019