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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 7,645 total, 56/month
Shared By: Eric Whitbeck on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The book describes the route as thin hands to tips, but it really goes thin hands to tips and then gradually widens to big hands. There is one drilled pin in the middle, right before the tips.

Protection

tips to big hands

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
Fuel Injected Hardbody, Steel Pulse (11+), Comic Relief, Mondo, and Wiggins II are on my short list for sandbagged creek 12-. Oct 24, 2017
Robert Daniel.
Denver, Colorado
Robert Daniel.   Denver, Colorado
I feel like I've climbed a fair number of 12-'s at the Creek, and this one felt like the hardest (and one of, if not the best).. Anybody have one(s) they think are harder y porque? Jul 19, 2017
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Definitely the toughest 12- Ive been on in the Creek. Its good and sooo long

Good hands don't come till the anchor

Seemed:
45-50 feet 1s
25 ft .75
10 ft boulder problem at pin
15 ft .5
20 ft .75 to 1s
Good Hands to the anchor Apr 7, 2016
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12-
So good!! Hard sections for the people with big hands and for the people with tiny fingers. No escaping a crux of one kind of another. Loved it! May 14, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
In my mind tied with Sinestra for best route in the creek! May 29, 2014
Yes, this one is a beaut! Apr 9, 2012
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
probably the perfect 12- benchmark at the creek. not the easiest, not the hardest, but surely the best. 5 star mega classic for sure - you need 2 ropes to get off, there are no ledges, the position is unparalleled, the climbing is brilliant. the best pitch i have climbed at the creek, and possibly the best pitch i have ever climbed period. Nov 28, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Indian Creek has long been well-known for having quite a few "easy" 5.12-'s. Way Rambo, Nine Lives, Coyne Crack, Sig Sauer, Dos Hermanos, Annunaki, Middle Crack, Gurka, and so on. If you are looking for one of these easier routes to get that 5.12- crack on your ticklist, THEN STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM THIS ROUTE!

Excellent route, though, all the same. Apr 21, 2009