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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,820 total, 17/month
Shared By: Dustin B on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Wide hands to fists in a shallow corner.

Location

Route is on the left side of Cliffs of Insanity, a few hundred feet left of 'Puzzle Factory'. Plaque at base said 11- but seems a bit soft at that grade.

Protection

2 #3 camalots, 4 or 5 #4 camalots, bolted anchor.

Photos

doligo  
^^^ MP needs a "Like" button. Apr 4, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I remember when this thing was #1s! Mar 26, 2016
Now 4s fit? WTF is this thing getting bigger? Mar 26, 2016
Gear for me was all new #4 and one old #4 Apr 23, 2014
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10
Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over. May 6, 2012
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
  5.10
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
  5.10
This is a little harder than .9 for the Creek. It's not 11- either. 5.10. Some good rests but harder than any 10- I've ever done at the creek. Apr 9, 2012
Dustin B
Steamboat
 
Dustin B   Steamboat
 
I agree, .9 maybe a + if your not great at the wide-ish stuff.I just put the 11- cause thats what the book and the plaque have. Nov 7, 2009
Alex Garhart
  5.9
Alex Garhart  
  5.9
Awesome route, mostly #4 friends but 0.5 and 0.75 C4 keep you from running out the low angle 5 easy at the top. With the many rests on small ledges 5.9 or 9+ seems fair. Nov 4, 2009
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
yeah, the grade seems way off on this one. our group thought it was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. when i did this route, there was an old verve chalkbag back in the upper chimney that i bootied. kind of wierd. fun route though. Dec 8, 2008