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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sam Feuerborn & Jack Cramer
Page Views: 915 total, 16/month
Shared By: Sam Feuerborn on Apr 9, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1: is just to the left of True Love and Mawwage. Starts in a blocky corner to some sweet stemming to a splitter that goes through a notch into some more blocky climbing to the belay.

Pitch 2: Goes up the obvious clean OW splitter to the anchors on the right side.

Can be rapped with a 70, a 60 MIGHT make it

Location

It is just to the left of True Love and Mawwage.

Protection

1x .4
2x .5
3x .75
3x #1
1x #2
1x #3
2x #4
3x #5
2x #6

Stuff smaller than the #2s can be left at the first belay

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
i would like to check it out but word is :stay off this route? Sam i know you knew that the name"Brute Squad" was spoken for..you named humperdinky after a climb that had been up for years? an sed you skimped on the recherche.. so at witch point i think you saw Brute Squad.. at the top of the listed climbs on this wall. would have loved to talk to you the morning i saw yer crew driving up the road to the approach trail. but no worry's you know what i look like so if you ever wan't to shoot the shit flag me down.. im in the creek year round ... DF Apr 25, 2013
Dang I'm bummed I missed the rant, heard it was a good one.

Just was feeling sassy when I posted it and was bummed the name was taken, turns out I skimped on the research.

It's certainly chossy below the belay on the first pitch and that's a bummer since the second pitch is such a fun moderate OW.

Devin, you'll have to check out the new route you saw me on, it's pretty bitchin'. Apr 14, 2013
slim    
damn, with all this hub bub i'm gonna have to climb this route and see what the hell is going on here.

is there a scene in the movie where the main bad guy says he is going to have to build a better brute squad? i think i watched it in high school, so its been a while. Apr 12, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
I don't know.... His offwidth is bigger than yours.. And takes more to protect. He might have a bigger wiener. Apr 11, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
He called your dick small on the internet. I'd fly off the handle and shit bricks if I were you. Oh wait, you already did. Nevermind... Apr 11, 2013
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
wow sam! hit a nerve there! see ya sat night! Apr 11, 2013