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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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As You Wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Beginning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Battle of Wits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inigo Montoya T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Jergen’s Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Luchador T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Memories of Seth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Fingerd Man T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Skip to the End T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown OW on far right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walk on the Weird Side T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wind Rider, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 38.15145, -109.59834 |
| FA: | Will S |
| Page Views: | 993 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Will Sharp on Nov 18, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
A very unusual route for the creek, but one that caught my eye for long enough that I was willing to give it the effort. A beautiful splitter into a varnished knife edge arete. I spent the better part of a day blowing brass stoppers out of the seam to the left to get the bolts in.
The route begins with a nice section of ringlocks that quickly drops to fingers and then tips. Place a high cam or two and then step right on crimps to the knife edge arete. 3 bolts of incredibly desperate, insecure arete slapping, heel hooking and laybacking will bring you to a final stance, where if you get your body properly balanced, you can clip the chains. This route demands precise footwork, balance and belief.
This route is like non-other I have climbed, so grading it is difficult. I took me many days over the course of 5 creek seasons to finally do it.
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