Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Will S
Page Views: 775 total · 24/month
Shared By: Will Sharp on Nov 18, 2021
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

A very unusual route for the creek, but one that caught my eye for long enough that I was willing to give it the effort. A beautiful splitter into a varnished knife edge arete. I spent the better part of a day blowing brass stoppers out of the seam to the left to get the bolts in.

The route begins with a nice section of ringlocks that quickly drops to fingers and then tips. Place a high cam or two and then step right on crimps to the knife edge arete. 3 bolts of incredibly desperate, insecure arete slapping, heel hooking and laybacking will bring you to a final stance, where if you get your body properly balanced, you can clip the chains. This route demands precise footwork, balance and belief.

This route is like non-other I have climbed, so grading it is difficult. I took me many days over the course of 5 creek seasons to finally do it.

Location Suggest change

Just left of the MC Hammer Zone.

Protection Suggest change

single rack red metolius to 0.3, 2 black totem size for switch to arete. 3 bolts. I found that extending the 3rd bolt with an alpine made it easier to clip.

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