Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 402 total · 13/month
Shared By: Brian Goeringer on Nov 29, 2021
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This a description for an unknown EXCELLENT wide one as far right on Cliffs of Insanity as you can go. It may be the last route on the right at the time of posting this.

Starts in a squeeze chimney (if you are small or on TR), If large or on lead you have to awkwardly climb size 8 OW / face for ten feet to top out a small block. After the block there is one move of size 3, then goes to size 4 through 5 until you reach a huge pod where a 6 just fits in the bottom. From here move into the pod and a life-saving beautiful size 3 handcrack appears on the left. climb the handcrack until it disappears and move through an overhanging fist to off-fist "roof" to the anchors. The route reminds me of a much wider spaghetti western for some reason, probably due to the accessory skinnier crack coming in at the perfect moment. 

When I climbed this on 11/27/2021 it was sandy as hell and had a ton of golfball - baseball sized rocks we cleaned out of the handcrack. Still going to be some loose stuff, wear a helemt!! This will clean up beautifully and be a sought after wideboy after more traffic. A fantastic line get on it!!!!

Location Suggest change

about 10-15 feet right of a two pitch finger crack

Protection Suggest change

1 x 2", 3-4 x 3", 5 x 4", 2-3 x 5", 1 x 6"