Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,566 total · 41/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Nov 4, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


99 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts with 5-easy stemming with a tips crack up to a stunning fists to hands to off fingers splitter. Cruxy right below the chains.

Location

Right of Man in Black past an unknown finger and hand splitter.

Protection

Singles from tips to thin hands and many 3.0"- 3.5" pieces.

Photos

LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.10+
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10+
not too many travel here but if you do its worth it. i mean just look at the climb, stunning! Jan 28, 2010
Fulford  
I loved this route!
BUT it's probably time to replace the old anchor. There are two drilled pitons but the rock has worn away significantly around both of them. One of the poorest anchors I've seen at the Creek. If only I'd had a drill up there... Mar 29, 2012
D-Storm
  5.11-
D-Storm  
  5.11-
Awesome warm-up for harder stuff. The last 10 feet are what barely tip the rating into into 11-. Apr 25, 2012
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.11-
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.11-
All I can say is Excellent!!!!! May 6, 2012
Great climb had the drill but it got to dark and I forgot my headlamp.
The pins are good from what I recall I was not at all worried about the anchor but it could use a bolt. Nov 4, 2013
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.11-
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
  5.11-
Anchors are 1/2" x 4" 5 pieces Nov 3, 2014
vietgoeswest
Portland
 
vietgoeswest   Portland
 
Exciting finish. Great for new 5.11- leader. Nov 4, 2015
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
Gear beta: 1 new #4, 2 #3's, 1 #2, 1 #1, Optional .75. If you want to protect the easy entrance (30 ft) to the base of the fist crack a blue tcu works well. Thank you for the new anchors and rap rings, don't know who to credit for that. great warm up for the surrounding "business" routes. Mar 3, 2016