Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 9,135 total · 62/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation.

This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!

Location

Perhaps a little to the left of where the approach trail reaches the cliff base. This line is impossible to miss.

Protection

one bolt, a few fingers and hands pices for the lower section, and then perhaps three of each from gold camalot down to green camalot for the headwall; then finally one purple (.5).

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Check out Return2Sender for the video beta... Nov 29, 2006
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
FA Petro? Jan 26, 2011
Funny. Remembering Vera topping out in the Return2sender video at the last milli-second saved me. Luckily, I had that vision rather than the Tommy picture! Apr 9, 2012
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
Anybody know why there's a bolt on this guy? It seems unnessary. Feb 29, 2016
doligo  
So the crack doesn't eat up the cam and to keep the rope out of the crack? Mar 1, 2016
Dear fellow climbers. If you are going to have people TR this route, it would be wise to extend the anchor beyond the edge, or use an edge protector. This will result in a much smoother TR for the belayer, and will prevent further erosion of the sandstone. With climbing still in its infancy, we should be thinking about what our routes will look like in 100 years. I don't want to see 12 parallel finger cracks at the top of all our climbs. Enjoy. Nov 8, 2017