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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Beginning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Battle of Wits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inigo Montoya T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kelley Route 1 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Luchador T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Memories of Seth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Fingerd Man T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Skip to the End T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown OW on far right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wind Rider, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 12,510 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Nov 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a mega classic. The first half of the climb starts as a not-easy finger crack before getting into a series of hand cracks through pods. The first two pods are easy to jam around; the final, which has a bolt near it, requires one move of leavittation.
This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!
This puts you at the base of an awesome headwall, and one of the steepest splitters at the Creek. Go from good hands, to thin hands, to ringlocks, to hard finger stacks as the pump builds! The splitter is a bit offset, so you can't really go hand-over-hand, and every move is harder than the one before it. You will see how it lured Tommy Caldwell into a layback right before he took that famous whipper a few years back. The final mantle from a mediocre fingerlock feels like the crux. I have heard this climb described as "like Rock Lobster, but 30 degrees overhung."!
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