Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,408 total · 19/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

You might feel like you've had a Lobotomy after climbing this OW to finger endurance fest! Easy stemming gives way to #6 Camalot fist stacks in a flare followed by some knee rests. Next comes the dreaded #4's with steep hand stacking that gradually tapers down to fists, hands, ringlocks and finally fingers at the anchor. Bring your A-game!

Location

Two routes left of Str8 Jacket.

Protection

Singles .5 to #3.5 two each #4 (one old and one new work best), three each #5 (two new, one old if you have it) & #6 (Camalots).

Photos

Ryan Z
  5.11
Ryan Z  
  5.11
This is an awesome climb! I definitely would not bring doubles from fingers to #3 next time I do it. You want as little gear as possible on you for the #6 section. Your gear will get caught on everything. One of the cruxes for me was just flipping gear from one side to the other over and over as you alternate sides. Get on this enduro OW fest! Feb 24, 2014
Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Brandon Gottung   currently Las Cruces, NM
 
Singles .5 to #2, double up on #3 and triples #4 to #6. I used a green bigbro for the third #6 sized piece, placed perfectly at the lip of the little roof feature - bomber. Oct 29, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11+
Just climbed this again and made an update to the gear beta as others have commented on. I also feel confident that this route is solid 11+ when compared to other Indian Creek routes. Oct 2, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.12-
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.12-
Got on this thing yesterday. Got spanked. Super hard size for me - knees were swimming, but couldn't get any amount of butt-cheek in. Double fist stacks were just baggy enough to not really be able to pull on them. Felt harder than 11+ to me, but its so body size dependent that its really hard to think of what grade it could/should be.

For rack - I brought three 4s three 5s, three 6s, and felt like that was a comfortable rack for the wide stuff. Left a 4 and a 5 behind at the start. Probably could be done with just two #4s and it wouldn't be too bad. For the top, a single rack from #3 down to .5 would be plenty, assuming you're not so worked by that point that you can't even pull the non-ow moves. Apr 23, 2016
matthoffman Hoffman
Oakland, CA
  5.12-
matthoffman Hoffman   Oakland, CA
  5.12-
Immaculate climb, this line will inspire you and leave you shaking Sep 13, 2018