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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,151 total, 18/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 7, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

You might feel like you've had a Lobotomy after climbing this OW to finger endurance fest! Easy stemming gives way to #6 Camalot fist stacks in a flare followed by some knee rests. Next comes the dreaded #4's with steep hand stacking that gradually tapers down to fists, hands, ringlocks and finally fingers at the anchor. Bring your A-game!

Location

Two routes left of Str8 Jacket.

Protection

Singles .5 to #3.5 two each #4 (one old and one new work best), three each #5 (two new, one old if you have it) & #6 (Camalots).

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.12-
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.12-
Got on this thing yesterday. Got spanked. Super hard size for me - knees were swimming, but couldn't get any amount of butt-cheek in. Double fist stacks were just baggy enough to not really be able to pull on them. Felt harder than 11+ to me, but its so body size dependent that its really hard to think of what grade it could/should be.

For rack - I brought three 4s three 5s, three 6s, and felt like that was a comfortable rack for the wide stuff. Left a 4 and a 5 behind at the start. Probably could be done with just two #4s and it wouldn't be too bad. For the top, a single rack from #3 down to .5 would be plenty, assuming you're not so worked by that point that you can't even pull the non-ow moves. Apr 23, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Just climbed this again and made an update to the gear beta as others have commented on. I also feel confident that this route is solid 11+ when compared to other Indian Creek routes. Oct 2, 2015
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Singles .5 to #2, double up on #3 and triples #4 to #6. I used a green bigbro for the third #6 sized piece, placed perfectly at the lip of the little roof feature - bomber. Oct 29, 2014
Ryan Z
  5.11
Ryan Z  
  5.11
This is an awesome climb! I definitely would not bring doubles from fingers to #3 next time I do it. You want as little gear as possible on you for the #6 section. Your gear will get caught on everything. One of the cruxes for me was just flipping gear from one side to the other over and over as you alternate sides. Get on this enduro OW fest! Feb 24, 2014