All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > San Juan County > Indian Creek > Cliffs of Insanity

Lobotomy

Name: Lobotomy
Rating: 3.9

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Hug from Andre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Andre The Giant T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	As You Wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Back to the Beginning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Barlage / Lawlor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Battle of Wits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Big hair hard Dick T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Clandestine T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Clean Spaniard, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Farm Boy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Funny Farm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Inconceivable T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Inigo Montoya T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Insane in the Membrane T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
	Jergen’s Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lightning Sand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Loony Bin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Luchador T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Memories of Seth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Mini Cave T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	O.C.D. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ophidiophobia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Original Prepare to Die, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Padded Cell T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Prepare for Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Queen of Slime T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Six Fingerd Man T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Skip to the End T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	TR T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown (easy hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown (fists to off fists) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown (lower angle tight hand crack right of Wiggins) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unknown OW on far right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vinciny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Walk on the Weird Side T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wind Rider, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
GPS:	38.15145, -109.59834
FA:	Paul Emrick, mid 90s
Page Views:	3,002 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Oct 7, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures! Details

2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

You might feel like you've had a Lobotomy after climbing this OW to finger endurance fest! Easy stemming gives way to #6 Camalot fist stacks in a flare followed by some knee rests. Next comes the dreaded #4's with steep hand stacking that gradually tapers down to fists, hands, ringlocks and finally fingers at the anchor. Bring your A-game!