Type: Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: Sean McLane and Levi Call, June 2019, FFA Sean McLane
Page Views: 566 total · 35/month
Shared By: Sean McLane on Jun 26, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Named Ophidiophobia (irrational fear of snakes) after the rattlesnake that wouldn't leave the base of the route and that I was accidentally lowered directly on top of.

P1) Hard moves off the ground and a sequence-y crux lead into sustained and interesting hands and wide-hands. Some of the most fun movement I've done on a Creek climb. 5.11+ 130'
P2) Pull the #3s roof, go through all the sizes down to tips, then a right-angling hand crack to a great ledge. 5.11+ 80'

Lead both pitches as one for a full-value route! Sling pieces in the chimney and the rope drag will be minimal.

Might be able to rap twice with a 70m, but this was put up with an 80.

Location

Go left from the top of the approach trail. This is the crack splitting the face left of Insane in the Membrain. Anchors should be visible under a large roof that crosses the full face. If you get to the unnamed hand crack, you've gone too far.

Protection

.1-4, heavier on 3s for P1, less than .3 for P2

Photos