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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Are There Rocks Ahead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
As you wish T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Beginning T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Brain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Brute Squad T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Spaniard, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fairy Dust T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Farm Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fezzik T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fire Swamp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funny Farm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Get Used to the Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hor D'oeuvres T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I've Seen Worse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inconceivable T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inigo Montoya T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Iocane Powder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Lady Tower, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Jumping the Shark T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lobotomy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
M.C.'s Hammer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Man In Black T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mawwage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nurse Rachet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Offwidth Your Head T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pit of Despair T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Prepare To Die T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prince Humperdinky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Princess Buttercup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puzzle Factory T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
R.O.U.S T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrieking Eels T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Fingerd Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skip to the End T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Str8 Jacket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
To The Pain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
True Love T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Use Your Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vinciny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wiggins I T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggins II T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
cave route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
jew fro an a boner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 7,764 total, 74/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an awesome, awesome, awesome splitter fist crack. Even if you don't like fist cracks, do this climb. It is really good!

Protection

1 each #1 and #2 Camalots. 3 #3 Camalots. 8 pieces in the #3.5 (old style Camalot) to #4 (old style Camalot) range (what I'm trying to say is that it goes from average fists to pretty big fists, and while 8 #4 C4's would work, it's nice to have some slightly different sized pieces). A 70m rope gets down... a 60 might?

Photos

Andrew Schrader
Helena, Montana
 
Andrew Schrader   Helena, Montana
 
Great climb. Gear recommendation for learning to climb 5.11- and splitter fist cracks. In camalots - (1) #1, (2-3 to keep you off the deck) #2s, (3 - 5) #3s, (6 - 8) #4s, (0) #5s fit. Save a 0.3, 2,3, or 4 for the top. Replaced the cord at anchors. Nov 27, 2017
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
  5.11-
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
  5.11-
Seemed to me to be about the cruxiest size of Big Guy except instead of getting wider it is the same width for about 50 feet. I have relatively small hands for a guy. But what an amazing line. One of the most pure splitters in the park for sure.

Anchor is 2 drilled pins and an old Petzl bolt (1/4 or 3/8th?) with webbing which looked decent enough but recommend bringing an extra blue 3" camalot with an alpine sling to back it up if you are planning a top roping session. Nov 5, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
60m worked for me Dec 27, 2013
The highlight of my latest Creek trip and the climb that stands out above the rest for pure quality desert climbing. Grade wise not the biggest tick you will get but aesthetically it doesn't get any better, just look at the setting. Big hands would make this climb almost easy but just think how hard all those tight hand cracks would be. Nov 5, 2013
Fist was to small, elbow to big and hand stacks to strenuous. Hardest 11- I have ever touched

But what a line Nov 4, 2013
Pretty rough 11-. Apr 9, 2012
J. Hickok
  5.11-
J. Hickok  
  5.11-
The "fists" section disappeared pretty quickly for me. Hand-size dependent as far as that goes. Apr 5, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
That is, unless they don't fit and then you'll love having your elbow in there Mar 31, 2010
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Trust me, "you'll get great fist jams" he says. May 1, 2009