Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins
Page Views: 8,438 total · 72/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an awesome, awesome, awesome splitter fist crack. Even if you don't like fist cracks, do this climb. It is really good!

Protection

1 each #1 and #2 Camalots. 3 #3 Camalots. 8 pieces in the #3.5 (old style Camalot) to #4 (old style Camalot) range (what I'm trying to say is that it goes from average fists to pretty big fists, and while 8 #4 C4's would work, it's nice to have some slightly different sized pieces). A 70m rope gets down... a 60 might?

Photos

Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Trust me, "you'll get great fist jams" he says. May 1, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
That is, unless they don't fit and then you'll love having your elbow in there Mar 31, 2010
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
  5.11-
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
  5.11-
The "fists" section disappeared pretty quickly for me. Hand-size dependent as far as that goes. Apr 5, 2010
Pretty rough 11-. Apr 9, 2012
Fist was to small, elbow to big and hand stacks to strenuous. Hardest 11- I have ever touched

But what a line Nov 4, 2013
The highlight of my latest Creek trip and the climb that stands out above the rest for pure quality desert climbing. Grade wise not the biggest tick you will get but aesthetically it doesn't get any better, just look at the setting. Big hands would make this climb almost easy but just think how hard all those tight hand cracks would be. Nov 5, 2013
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
  5.11-
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
  5.11-
Seemed to me to be about the cruxiest size of Big Guy except instead of getting wider it is the same width for about 50 feet. I have relatively small hands for a guy. But what an amazing line. One of the most pure splitters in the park for sure.

Anchor is 2 drilled pins and an old Petzl bolt (1/4 or 3/8th?) with webbing which looked decent enough but recommend bringing an extra blue 3" camalot with an alpine sling to back it up if you are planning a top roping session. Nov 5, 2017
Andrew Schrader
Helena, MT
 
Andrew Schrader   Helena, MT
 
Great climb. Gear recommendation for learning to climb 5.11- and splitter fist cracks. In camalots - (1) #1, (2-3 to keep you off the deck) #2s, (3 - 5) #3s, (6 - 8) #4s, (0) #5s fit. Save a 0.3, 2,3, or 4 for the top. Replaced the cord at anchors. Nov 27, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
70m...elbows deep 6 inches ata time...as boring as stellar can be. Great finish:)

2,3,4 friend (3) old 4 Cams Dec 30, 2017