Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Ramier, Steven Lucarelli (May, 2009)|
|Page Views:||3,127 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Steven Lucarelli on Apr 19, 2010|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
This route is simply stunning! Josh Janes saw the line and showed it to Tom and three trips later we had put up a mega classic! The route starts up a dirty sandy corner for about 15' but don't worry the choss ends here. Once above the corner the true climbing begins with a interesting offwidth that is formed by two arete's pointing towards each other. There is a hidden #1 Camalot placement inside this offwidth near the bottom that you can see if you stick your head into the crack (you'll need a sling for sure on this piece). After that we placed two bolts to protect the rest of the wide section.
From the top of the wide crack (There is a great kneebar, no hands rest here by the way) the crack changes to thin fingers in an open right facing corner. Layback and jam up this corner with increasing difficulty as the corner gets smaller and so does the crack. Place a final high piece (.2 Camalot) from a tips stance and try to gather your strength for the crux.
The crux moves are strenuous and powerful but here's the beta. Walk your feet up high on the left face of the corner while liebacking hard off the tips crack. Make a big reach with your right hand to a good face hold and gaston off it. From the gaston move your feet up some more and make another big reach with your left hand back to the crack where it opens up again to fingers. A couple more moves will get you firmly in the crack with some feet. From here the climbing eases and the crack widens to hands and the anchor.
The second pitch is not as hard, probably clocking in at about 11- but it would be a shame to miss with classic position and exposure. From the anchor chimney up about a body length to a good hand crack. Hand traverse out right to an airy stance and follow a large ovehanging right facing corner up to a roof. Big hands and/or fists get you over the roof and into a perfect chimney with nothing but air below. Climb up about 10 to 15 feet of unprotected but easy chimney to a great belay stance on the right.
Two 70m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of the second pitch with a fully free hanging rappel. Make sure you rap off the right side from the second anchor and not through the chimney. Two 60m ropes are needed to get down from the first anchor.
Pitch 1: (1).2, (3).3, (3).4, (3).5, (1).75, (2) 1, (2)2, (1)3.
Pitch 2: (2)2, (3)3, (1)3.5
You'll also want slings for the bottom of the first pitch and for under the roofs on the second pitch.
There are two bolts at each anchor. The anchor for the first pitch has chains and the second pitch has slings and a quick link.