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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,218 total, 45/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jun 9, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

description

NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.

On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney!

Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains. Rap off.

EDIT: There is an upper pitch to Touch and Go, which I have not done. From the bolts, step around left and climb a handcrack to lizard ledge.

Protection

Take extra #2 camalots, 4 would be nice on the route, it eats them up. Nothing bigger than a #3. Upper section takes some smaller items as well.

Location

The very right side of the Rat's Tooth, obvious flaring chimney. On the left side of the Black Wall, just left of the classic One Hand Clapping.

Photos

andrew bogaard  
  5.8
Can we update this page to reflect the most common 4 pitch variant ala Jackson? It goes 5.8, 5.7, 5.9+, 5.6, although I think that first pitch is a stiff 5.8 Jun 15, 2014
Timbo Stillinger  
  5.9
HIGHLY recommend linking from the belay bolts from in cannable gully up the hand crack, to the splitter finger crack on the face on your right, into the dihedral up to the bolts on lizards ledge. Really really good continuous pitch with all types of fun climbing! The dihedral is super knobby, very clean, and not that hard, plenty of good gear all the way if you ration your rack wisely. You'd be missing out on a five star 5.9 pitch if you rapped before this. Jun 24, 2013
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a
Great Route. Did the dihedral the whole way as its been heavily cleaned and was great climbing. When I did this 10 years ago you would not have wanted to do that as it was covered in moss and there were alot of flakes in the lower dihedral. the finger crack of T&G may be a little harder and you miss the airy 5.7 while out on the arete, but its a classic line. Sep 9, 2012
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Great route if done to Lizard Ledge.

The P1 flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is very nice. Somewhat strenuous with few rests. Fortunately that hand crack in the back makes it moderate. Take extra #2 and #3 camalots if you want to sew if up. 3 of each would not go unused. We had 3 #2s and 2 #3s and used them all. Climb through a roof, move left, and belay at bolts. These bolts are below Hungover Hangover.

Alternately you could climb the middle of the Rat's Tooth at 10a or head up the more moderate gully to the left of the Rat's Tooth.

P2 steps left around the corner into the gully. If you started on Cannibal Gully the routes would meet up here. You can belay at bolts to make an intermediate belay for rope drag. If not, head up a 5.7 corner with a hand crack. Belay below the splitter finger crack or the large right facing corner, depending on which variation you do on P3.

We did the splitter crack to start P3. It's short but very good. You can also go directly up the dihedral at the start. There's an awkward move where the crack meets up with the corner. Felt 10a to me. I continued all the way up the corner to Lizard Ledge. I missed the arete. The top of the corner is dirty/mossy but it's got some interesting stemming and laybacking. From Lizard Ledge you can continue to the top or rap. We were able to rap the face with 1 70 meter rope. Just watch your ends. Nov 21, 2011
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.9
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.9
There are quite a few ways to do this climb. This is how I did it on my first attempt. It seemed to work out as a natural line.
Pitch 1: I started the climb by going up the right side of cannibal gulley (5.7?) to the fixed anchors and nice ledge below Empty sky.
Pitch 2: Goes up a 5.7 corner. Nice hand jams with some lie back and face moves. Eases off to a ramp up to a head wall. Natural pro anchor.
Pitch 3: I climbed up the nice clean corner, through the delicate thin crux (5.9) to a small ledge, then I traversed right to the arete. This arete is very exposed with not much pro. You can get a very small cam in half way up the arete. Goes at 5.7(ish) with a 5.8 finish. The exposure on this section is amazing.
Pitch 4, anyway you want to exit Lizard ledge.

On my second attempt (Aug 2012) I went up the left side of Cannibal gulley. The start is harder than it looks. The crack system is not really OW, but it is awkward. Maybe 5.7. The right traverse to the chains is easy but runout.
On pitch 3 I did the 5.9 finger crack that starts about 10 feet before you reach the headwall/corner. This is a really nice sized finger crack that feels very secure. After the crack joins the corner 20 feet up and then reaches the small ledge, I continued straight up the corner rather than going right to the arete. This corner is quite clean now and takes nice hand jams. It's well worth doing and probably goes at 5.8

Whichever way you do this climb pitch 3 is great climbing. Oct 12, 2011
amselby Selby
  5.9
amselby Selby  
  5.9
the back side of Rat's tooth is great, but Touch and go can go in two pitches and is easily reached from inner recess. From the two bolt anchor on the right, climb up the clean hand crack (5.7) to slab crack then exit right on the vertical very thin crack (5.9) on the left facing wall. This leads up to a chimney/lieback/hand crack with an exciting finish.The upper pitches are just as great as the lower, climb to the top!! Enjoy Sep 17, 2011
Scott T
Alpine Meadows, CA
Scott T   Alpine Meadows, CA
There are two more pitches to reach Lizard Ledge. From the bolted belay, move left around the corner, climb up easily passing a two bolt anchor for (Empty Sky Direct?) to a great hand crack in a left facing corner (5.7), leading to a sloping belay ledge beneath an impossing headwall.

The third pitch takes the large right facing corner, beginning with a 15 ft crack. Climbing the dihedral directly is fine, but watch out for a bunch of rotten and loose rock - better to climb the crack. Continue up the dihedral, now free of loose rock!, making a perfect rightward traverse to the arete - exhilarating! Continue up the exposed arete to a small roof feature and Lizard Ledge. Incredible pitch! Save some small Aliens for the arete or you'll get runout real quick! Also, long slings are crucial through the traverse and arete. Feb 6, 2011