Type: Trad, 370 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,872 total · 53/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jun 9, 2008 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Kyle Bishop, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


91 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details

description

NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.

P1 - On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is the first pitch of this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney! Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains.

P2 - From the Anchor step around to the left.  You can go up and over or stay low (we stayed low).  From here climb a 5.7 hand crack in a corner to a slopey belay ledge beneath a dihedral (gear anchor) or belay from an anchor way out left beneath rambo crack (not optimal).

P3 - tackle the steep dihedral all the way to lizard ledge.  I think the route traverses right at some point to the arete, but I stayed in the dihedral the whole way (turns into a stembox at the top).  It does get a little dirty toward the end if you do it this way, the traverse right may be better.

P4 - finish one of the many pitches to the top or rap from lizard ledge

Protection

Take extra #2 camalots, 4 would be nice on the route, it eats them up. Nothing bigger than a #3. Upper section takes some smaller items as well.

Location

The very right side of the Rat's Tooth, obvious flaring chimney. On the left side of the Black Wall, just left of the classic One Hand Clapping.

Photos