Avg: 3.4 from 91 votes
|Type:||Trad, 370 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||7,872 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||caughtinside on Jun 9, 2008 with 2 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, Kyle Bishop, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1 - On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is the first pitch of this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney! Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains.
P2 - From the Anchor step around to the left. You can go up and over or stay low (we stayed low). From here climb a 5.7 hand crack in a corner to a slopey belay ledge beneath a dihedral (gear anchor) or belay from an anchor way out left beneath rambo crack (not optimal).
P3 - tackle the steep dihedral all the way to lizard ledge. I think the route traverses right at some point to the arete, but I stayed in the dihedral the whole way (turns into a stembox at the top). It does get a little dirty toward the end if you do it this way, the traverse right may be better.
P4 - finish one of the many pitches to the top or rap from lizard ledge