Type: Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 4 pitches
FA: Kim Schmitz and Norm Simmons, 1971
Page Views: 11,216 total · 58/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Jun 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures DetailsDrop down

description Suggest change

NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.

P1 - On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is the first pitch of this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney! Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains.

P2 - From the Anchor step around to the left.  You can go up and over or stay low (we stayed low).  From here climb a 5.7 hand crack in a corner to a slopey belay ledge beneath a dihedral (gear anchor) or belay from an anchor way out left beneath rambo crack (not optimal).

P3 - tackle the steep dihedral all the way to lizard ledge.  I think the route traverses right at some point to the arete, but I stayed in the dihedral the whole way (turns into a stembox at the top).  It does get a little dirty toward the end if you do it this way, the traverse right may be better.

P4 - finish one of the many pitches to the top or rap from lizard ledge

Protection Suggest change

Take extra #2 camalots, 4 would be nice on the route, it eats them up. Nothing bigger than a #3. Upper section takes some smaller items as well.

Location Suggest change

The very right side of the Rat's Tooth, obvious flaring chimney. On the left side of the Black Wall, just left of the classic One Hand Clapping.