Type: Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 4 pitches
FA: Kim Schmitz and Norm Simmons, 1971
Page Views: 11,535 total · 58/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Jun 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There are a variety of ways to climb Touch And Go (and this section of Black Wall in general). The route as described here is the original version with options on the first and third pitches.

P1 (5.8-5.10a): The first pitch has three possible starts that all converge about 40' up (flaring chimney on the right, Rat's Tooth, or a wide crack to the left of Rat's Tooth). After the converging start, head up some wideness to a big ledge. The flaring chimney is supposedly the original start and is the easiest of the three.

P2 (5.8): Step around an arete to the left, then head up a splitter hand crack. Belay at the base of an obvious corner after the crack ramps out.

P3 (5.9): Follow the stellar corner all the way to Lizard Ledge. The upper part of the corner used to be extremely dirty and the original version of Touch And Go stepped right to the slabby arete about 40-50' up. The corner is quite clean now and most will finish the pitch this way.

P4 (5.7-5.10): Pick one of several finishes off of Lizard Ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4", alpine draws. Fixed anchors at the top of P1 and P3 (Lizard Ledge).

Location Suggest change

On the left side of Black Wall, about 20' left of One Hand Clapping. Look for the obvious pillar that is the "Rat's Tooth".

Photos

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