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Elevation: 7,580 ft
GPS: 39.33001, -120.3349
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Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 7, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Donner Summit is one of the crown jewels of climbing in Tahoe, featuring trad, sport, bouldering, and multi-pitch, all on high-quality granite, perched above Donner Lake and Truckee.  

Donner Summit generally covers crags and boulders situated between Donner Pass Road (i.e., Old Highway 40) and Interstate 80.  Most of the walls are accessed via Donner Pass Road, with a few exceptions accessed from I-80 (Babylon, Bat Wall, PCT Cliff, Freeway Slab).

Summer is the prime time to climb on the Summit, with spring and fall offering excellent conditions as well. The Summit is typically snowed-in in the winter, although a few crags (e.g., southwest face of Grouse Slab) can be climbed year-round.

Although many climbers will flock to popular walls like Snowshed, gems can be found everywhere, and it's not hard to find solitude if you're willing to hike a little further.  A dip in Donner Lake and some beers on the dock can be a great way to finish off a day of sending.

Getting There

Drive on Interstate 80 from outside the Donner area.

From the west, take exit 174 at Soda Springs, and follow Donner Pass Road just past the ski areas where large rocks appear on both sides of the road.

From the east, take exit 184 just past Truckee for Donner Pass Road. Drive past the lake, and up to your destination.

Lots of this area's destinations use the Pacific Crest Trail -the local path of least resistance - as art of their approach, especially on the north side of the road.

Lodging

Camping near the climbing is illegal, but doesn't seem to be too severely enforced. If that troubles you, seasonally there's camping on the opposite side of Donner Lake (see Donner Memorial State Park's website for details), and both cabins and hotels accommodations in from there to Truckee, which is an ample source of nearby food and entertainment.

Granite Flat Campground opens earlier each year than Donner Memorial SP. It is located a few miles south of Truckee on highway 89. It currently costs $22/night for a single vehicle site. It's not the most remote campsite as it is directly adjacent to 89, but has decent toilets and well water.

431 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Donner Summit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 203
● Jellyroll Arch
Trad 2 pitches
Grouse Slab > E Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 327
● One Hand Clapping
Trad 4 pitches
Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 239
● Black September
Trad
Black Wall > 3. Black Wall - Right
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 118
● Touch and Go
Trad 4 pitches
Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 270
● Nova Express
Trad
Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 246
● Bottomless Topless
Trad, TR
Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 238
● Farewell To Arms
Trad
Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
● Firecracker
Trad
Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 210
● Aerial
Sport
Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 186
● Peter Principle
Trad, TR
Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 104
● Made In Japan
Sport
Space Wall
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 123
● Little Feat
Sport
Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 80
● Disciples Of The New Wave
Trad
Snowshed Wall > N Face > 3. Gully - Right Side
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 136
● Monkey Paws
Trad
Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
● Cookie Mix
Sport
S Star Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Jellyroll Arch Grouse Slab > E Face
 203
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● One Hand Clapping Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 327
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Black September Black Wall > 3. Black Wall - Right
 239
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Touch and Go Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 118
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Nova Express Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 270
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Bottomless Topless Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 246
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Farewell To Arms Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 238
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Firecracker Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Aerial Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 210
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Peter Principle Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 186
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
● Made In Japan Space Wall
 104
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Little Feat Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 123
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Disciples Of The New Wave Snowshed Wall > N Face > 3. Gully - Right Side
 80
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Monkey Paws Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 136
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Cookie Mix S Star Wall
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Donner Summit »

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Add New Photo
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Photos

Brette Harrington warming up on Bronco
Brette Harrington warming up on Bronco
 18
climbing this thing
climbing this thing
 22
Lots to do up here other than climb. A bit of art for inspiration from Jojo.
Lots to do up here other than climb. A bit of a…
 23
This picture isn't washed out... I just glow that much.
This picture isn't washed out... I just glow th…
 10
Nah cruising thru the crux.
Nah cruising thru the crux.
 8
John above the crux of One Hand Clapping. Photo by Gigi.
John above the crux of One Hand Clapping. Photo…
 4
Working hard on the steep finishing wall of Goldilocks, 5.11a
Working hard on the steep finishing wall of Gol…
 3
Summer, 2011
Summer, 2011
 0
Watching the sun set over Donner Lake is a highly recommended activity after an evening at Star Wall
Watching the sun set over Donner Lake is a high…
 0
Donner Lake on a balmy December day.
Donner Lake on a balmy December day.
 0
Unknown problem (V4?) on an unknown boulder at Donner Pass. On the way to the Grouse Slabs. Thanks to Ben and Mason for showing me this great problem.
Unknown problem (V4?) on an unknown boulder at…
 0
View from high above Donner Lake
View from high above Donner Lake
 0

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