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Routes in Black Wall

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bourbon Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cannibal Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hungover Hangover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinball Junkie T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 6,755 ft
GPS: 39.326, -120.314 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 58,095 total, 387/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 4, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Notes Details

Getting There

Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Labyrinth
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rated X
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Hand Clapping
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black September
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rat's Tooth
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hungover Hangover
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Touch A Cannibal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firecracker
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Moon
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There Goes The Neighborhood
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sky Pilot
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Headstone
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Labyrinth 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Rated X 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
One Hand Clapping 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Black September 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Touch and Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Primer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rat's Tooth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hungover Hangover 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Touch A Cannibal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Firecracker 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
New Moon 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Finger Licker 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
There Goes The Neighborhood 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sky Pilot 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Headstone 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
JVB Project
Berkeley CA
JVB Project   Berkeley CA
The second repel anchor from the top only has one loose bolt remaining. Somebody ran a backup dynamic rope to the upper anchors in case the bolt fails. Its sketchy. The backup rope can be seen from the road.

IMO The entire band of granite is crap rock. The one bolt remaining needs to be removed and a new anchor needs to be installed either just below, in the adjacent band, or 30m down from the top.

Be safe. Jun 25, 2017

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