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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,062 total, 67/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.

Protection

Pro to 4".
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
PM me if you pulled a .75 BD just above the shelf. Buddy jammed it in too far and we had to run for family event. Thanks. Aug 24, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point. Sep 23, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
You see, Corey, the Nova/Farewell gauge of difficulty is order dependent. If you do Nova first, Farewell will feel harder...and vice versa. ;) Sep 13, 2011
coreylee
Sacramento, CA
coreylee   Sacramento, CA
Really fun climb! Did farewell to arms just before and found this climb to be a bit harder. Sep 12, 2011
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.9+
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary. Aug 9, 2011
Nut Stac
Reno, NV
Nut Stac   Reno, NV
New to crack climbing. Tried to put this up yesterday, very very stout. Awesome climb though, tons of fun. But like was said before me, not for the fledgling crack leader (such as I). Jul 5, 2010
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
I followed this one - great climb to practice crack moves. There's nothing like a solid hand jam! May 15, 2010
Joe Dawson  
 
Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers. May 12, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful. Aug 15, 2008
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous. Mar 24, 2008
426
 
426  
 
Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 leader...at all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well. Mar 6, 2007