Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,977 total · 68/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


176 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.

Protection

Pro to 4".
426
 
426  
 
Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 leader...at all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well. Mar 6, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous. Mar 24, 2008
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful. Aug 15, 2008
Joe Dawson  
 
Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers. May 12, 2009
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
I followed this one - great climb to practice crack moves. There's nothing like a solid hand jam! May 15, 2010
Nut Stac
Reno, NV
Nut Stac   Reno, NV
New to crack climbing. Tried to put this up yesterday, very very stout. Awesome climb though, tons of fun. But like was said before me, not for the fledgling crack leader (such as I). Jul 5, 2010
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.9+
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary. Aug 9, 2011
coreylee
Sacramento, CA
coreylee   Sacramento, CA
Really fun climb! Did farewell to arms just before and found this climb to be a bit harder. Sep 12, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
You see, Corey, the Nova/Farewell gauge of difficulty is order dependent. If you do Nova first, Farewell will feel harder...and vice versa. ;) Sep 13, 2011
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point. Sep 23, 2012
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
PM me if you pulled a .75 BD just above the shelf. Buddy jammed it in too far and we had to run for family event. Thanks. Aug 24, 2017
Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
A Sustained, varied crack with (mostly) good rock. Pretty long pitch to find a flow, look outside the crack every once in a while. Jul 23, 2018