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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,815 total · 68/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.


Pro to 4".
Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well. Mar 6, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous. Mar 24, 2008
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful. Aug 15, 2008
Joe Dawson  
Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers. May 12, 2009
Reno, NV
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
I followed this one - great climb to practice crack moves. There's nothing like a solid hand jam! May 15, 2010
Nut Stac
Reno, NV
Nut Stac   Reno, NV
New to crack climbing. Tried to put this up yesterday, very very stout. Awesome climb though, tons of fun. But like was said before me, not for the fledgling crack leader (such as I). Jul 5, 2010
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary. Aug 9, 2011
Sacramento, CA
coreylee   Sacramento, CA
Really fun climb! Did farewell to arms just before and found this climb to be a bit harder. Sep 12, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
You see, Corey, the Nova/Farewell gauge of difficulty is order dependent. If you do Nova first, Farewell will feel harder...and vice versa. ;) Sep 13, 2011
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point. Sep 23, 2012
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
PM me if you pulled a .75 BD just above the shelf. Buddy jammed it in too far and we had to run for family event. Thanks. Aug 24, 2017
Eric Leonard
oakland california
Eric Leonard   oakland california
A Sustained, varied crack with (mostly) good rock. Pretty long pitch to find a flow, look outside the crack every once in a while. Jul 23, 2018

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