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Road Cut, The Rock Climbing
Routes in Road Cut, The
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Crack A No Go T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Curvy Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Street S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Escargot T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Herring Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hit and Run S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Itchy and Scratchy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Penguin Lust S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spaceman Spiff S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Totem Pole S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Transmogrifier S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Elevation: | 6,500 ft |
| GPS: | 39.323, -120.313 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 9,987 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Oct 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area
Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. The Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign, then purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs, in 2015.
Access Issue: 2014 nesting closure
Details
Totem Pile and the climbs right of it are closed for nesting falcons, per a sign posted by The Access Fund and that I saw on 4/21/14. The falcons are there, please respect the closure.
Description
This area contains many sport routes of intermediate to expert grade, though there are also a few existing cracks that can be protected traditionally.
Rappelling of the top anchors is your best bet on most routes, as you can rap down to the top anchors on most climbs, but climbing out of them is not so simple.
You will find this area in the shade in the afternoon, though in the mornings it will be quite hot.
It should also be noted that The Totem Pile (5.10d), located on the mid right section of the road cut, a former runout rated Rclimb is now bolted.
Rappelling of the top anchors is your best bet on most routes, as you can rap down to the top anchors on most climbs, but climbing out of them is not so simple.
You will find this area in the shade in the afternoon, though in the mornings it will be quite hot.
It should also be noted that The Totem Pile (5.10d), located on the mid right section of the road cut, a former runout rated Rclimb is now bolted.
Getting There
Approach time: cross the street, and pull out your gear.
From the west (I-80 and Soda Springs) head up over the pass. head downhill over the bridge, and continue past The Peanut Gallery (the large slablike rock on your left), to the next roadside rock on the left, which is The Road Cut.
Park on either side of the road, though there is a definate pullout on the right side of the road.
From the east this is the first established area near the road. It comes a couple bends in the road after you pass the large Black Wall.
From the west (I-80 and Soda Springs) head up over the pass. head downhill over the bridge, and continue past The Peanut Gallery (the large slablike rock on your left), to the next roadside rock on the left, which is The Road Cut.
Park on either side of the road, though there is a definate pullout on the right side of the road.
From the east this is the first established area near the road. It comes a couple bends in the road after you pass the large Black Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Road Cut, The
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Reno, Nevada
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Sacramento, CA
Truckee