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Elevation: 5,994 ft 1,827 m
GPS: 39.31367, -120.47095
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Aron Quiter on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Interstate 80 runs from San Francisco to New Jersey. From Sacramento in California's central valley to the Nevada border near Reno, it crosses most of the Sierra Nevada, including some of the earliest recorded Anglo American emigrant trails over infamous Donner Pass.

The northern Sierra Nevada is a vast and mostly untamed stretch of rocky hillsides and granite peaks. Bouldering is everywhere, and sport is plentiful. Trad routes can be found, both documented and wild. New rock is always just over the next ridge, and all you need is a little imagination and some forestry maps, and you can find the next climbing area in California.

Areas in the foothills may not be documented. A lot of climbable rock is found on private property, and also in public areas where local land managers don't believe that climbing is a reputable sport. Auburn State Recreation Area had a rocky history, but the administrators and climbing community built bridges there.

Truckee is the cultural hot spot. For gear, Tahoe Sports Hub and the Backcountry are all shops with a history in the area and contribute positively to the local mountain culture.

Elevations range from near sea level in the central valley itself, up to eight thousand of feet as the foothills rise to the heart of the mountain range. Checking the National Weather Service forecast for your exact destination is best for planning mountain days outdoors.

Low elevation crags can be scorching on summer afternoons, but become popular retreats from winter ice and snow. These include the Auburn area, where sport climbs and bouldering are had at Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry) and the Bar. Beginner friendly, mostly lowball, boulder problems are plentiful at Deer Creek Park in Rocklin.

Medium and high elevation rocks' seasonality depends heavily on current weather patterns, snow cover, and whether the cliff faces south towards the sun. But by summer time, most accessible crags are covered with climbers from around the world. Bouldering is everywhere in this area above about 5,500 feet in elevation, where the mid elevation pine forests thin out. Donner Summit has the highest concentration of established trad routes, and the tallest cliffs. Indian Springs, Bowman Valley and some sections of Donner are popular sport climbing areas.

Although Interstate 80 continue through the Truckee River Canyon east of the town of Truckee, all crags between Truckee and the Nevada border en route to Reno are in the TRC area now, since they're relatively close together, while this I-80 area contains bouldering parks as far west as Rocklin.

Getting There Suggest change

Interstate 80 in California is reached from most other regions through Sacramento from the west, or from Reno to the east. Many other highways, surface streets and dirt roads connect to it. See specific crags for directions.

1,933 Total Climbs

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Location: I-80 Corridor Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at I-80 Corridor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 221
Jellyroll Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 345
One Hand Clapping
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 255
Black September
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 287
Nova Express
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 258
Bottomless Topless
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 248
Farewell To Arms
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 136
Firecracker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 347
Step Into The Light
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 233
Aerial
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 195
Peter Principle
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 119
Made In Japan
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 195
Charlee And The Stick Factory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 181
Super Size Me
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 133
Little Feat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 146
Monkey Paws
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jellyroll Arch Donner Summit > Grouse Slab > E Face
 221
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
One Hand Clapping Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 345
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Black September Donner Summit > Black Wall > 3. Black Wall - Right
 255
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Nova Express Donner Summit > … > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 287
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Bottomless Topless Donner Summit > … > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 258
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Farewell To Arms Donner Summit > … > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 248
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Firecracker Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 136
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Step Into The Light Bowman/Emeralds > … > Kudos Cliff > Kudos Left
 347
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Aerial Donner Summit > … > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 233
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Peter Principle Donner Summit > … > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 195
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Made In Japan Donner Summit > Space Wall
 119
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Charlee And The Stick Factory Bowman/Emeralds > … > Benches > Fortress
 195
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Super Size Me Bowman/Emeralds > … > Benches > Fast Food Wall
 181
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Little Feat Donner Summit > … > E Face > 3. E Face Main
 133
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Monkey Paws Donner Summit > … > N Face > 1. N Face Main
 146
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in I-80 Corridor »

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