Elevation: 5,994 ft
GPS: 39.314, -120.471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,806,027 total · 10,401/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Interstate 80 runs from San Francisco to New Jersey. From Sacramento in California's central valley to the Nevada border near Reno, it crosses most of the Sierra Nevada, including some of the earliest recorded Anglo American emigrant trails over infamous Donner Pass.

The northern Sierra Nevada is a vast and mostly untamed stretch of rocky hillsides and granite peaks. Bouldering is everywhere, and sport is plentiful. Trad routes can be found, both documented and wild. New rock is always just over the next ridge, and all you need is a little imagination and some forestry maps, and you can find the next climbing area in California.

Areas in the foothills may not be documented. A lot of climbable rock is found on private property, and also in public areas where local land managers don't believe that climbing is a reputable sport. Auburn State Recreation Area had a rocky history, but the administrators and climbing community built bridges there.

Truckee is the cultural hot spot. For gear, Tahoe Sports Hub and the Backcountry are all shops with a history in the area and contribute positively to the local mountain culture.

Elevations range from near sea level in the central valley itself, up to eight thousand of feet as the foothills rise to the heart of the mountain range. Checking the National Weather Service forecast for your exact destination is best for planning mountain days outdoors.

Low elevation crags can be scorching on summer afternoons, but become popular retreats from winter ice and snow. These include the Auburn area, where sport climbs and bouldering are had at Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry) and the Bar. Beginner friendly, mostly lowball, boulder problems are plentiful at Deer Creek Park in Rocklin.

Medium and high elevation rocks' seasonality depends heavily on current weather patterns, snow cover, and whether the cliff faces south towards the sun. But by summer time, most accessible crags are covered with climbers from around the world. Bouldering is everywhere in this area above about 5,500 feet in elevation, where the mid elevation pine forests thin out. Donner Summit has the highest concentration of established trad routes, and the tallest cliffs. Indian Springs, Bowman Valley and some sections of Donner are popular sport climbing areas.

Although Interstate 80 continue through the Truckee River Canyon east of the town of Truckee, all crags between Truckee and the Nevada border en route to Reno are in the TRC area now, since they're relatively close together, while this I-80 area contains bouldering parks as far west as Rocklin.

Getting There

Interstate 80 in California is reached from most other regions through Sacramento from the west, or from Reno to the east. Many other highways, surface streets and dirt roads connect to it. See specific crags for directions.

1,379 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at I-80 Corridor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 147
Jellyroll Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 239
One Hand Clapping
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 180
Black September
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
Touch and Go
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 205
Nova Express
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 187
Bottomless Topless
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 189
Farewell To Arms
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 92
Firecracker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 213
Step Into The Light
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 126
Charlee And The Stick Factory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Little Feat
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 147
Aerial
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 132
Peter Principle
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Super Size Me
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 87
Monkey Paws
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jellyroll Arch Donner Summit > Grouse Slab > E Face
 147
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
One Hand Clapping Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 239
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Black September Donner Summit > Black Wall > 3. Black Wall - Right
 180
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Touch and Go Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Nova Express Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face
 205
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Bottomless Topless Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > N Face
 187
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Farewell To Arms Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face
 189
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Firecracker Donner Summit > Black Wall > 1. Black Wall - Left
 92
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Step Into The Light Bowman/Emeralds > … > Kudos Cliff > Kudos Left
 213
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Charlee And The Stick Factory Bowman/Emeralds > … > Benches > Fortress
 126
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Little Feat Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face
 90
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Aerial Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > N Face
 147
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Peter Principle Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > N Face
 132
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Super Size Me Bowman/Emeralds > … > Benches > Fast Food Wall
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Monkey Paws Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > N Face
 87
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in I-80 Corridor »

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