Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry) Rock Climbing
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Within the boundaries of the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA) is the remains of an old limestone quarry, formerly the Spreckels quarry. The quarry was bequeathed to the Bureau of Reclamation after the Teichert Inc. had determined that the lower quarry had yielded as much material as was financially feasible. The new land was then included in the State Recreation Area for management by the SRA for the Bureau of Reclamation. The SRA allows recreational usages include hiking, swimming, boating, fishing, camping, mountain biking, gold panning, equestrian/horseback riding trails, off-highway motorcycle riding, and whitewater, with Class II, III and IV runs. Ironically enough, climbing was not addressed in the recreational usage plan despite the quarries large rock cliffs being ideally suited for technical rock climbing.
Auburn Quarry Raptor Nesting Closures forum.
It is not uncommon to see the Placer County Sheriff use the Old Quarry as a practice grounds for their Search and Rescue Team. So don't be surprised if on occasion you see a large group of folks rappel and jugging the Scale Wall. Please respect their right to use the area for this purpose and find a different wall to climb on until they are done!
- Highway 80 to Auburn.
- Exit Elm Ave (exit 119c), and stay left at the fork.
- Turn left on Elm.
- .2 miles later, left on El Dorado St (also Hwy 49).
- Turn right to stay on highway 49, head down the hill and cross the bridge towards Cool (there's a sign.)
- About a 1/4 mile later, park in the street or in the paid lot on the left (it's hard to see, but it's a VERY wide pull in)
From the parking lot (I advise bringing a bike!!!): Follow the signs for "Cave Valley Climbing Area." Walk about 1 1/2 miles down the main trail (which heads more or less East out of the lot) way above the creek. You'll come to a large fort-like structure with a very wide trail heading straight up a steepish hill right of the main trail, which ends up taking you to the right of the fort. Walk another 150 yards to the FIRST fork, and go right. Follow this still wide (though often quite leaf-covered) trail trough another bend to the left, and you'll pop out at the entrance to the climbing area, with Scale Wall right in front of you.
Approach to close walls : 30 minutes (8 minutes by bike)
Approach to furthest bolted walls: 45 minutes
Classic Climbing Routes at Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry)
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