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Elevation: 5,500 ft 1,676 m
GPS: 39.4443, -120.656
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Page Views: 282,675 total · 1,856/month
Shared By: Kurt Swanson on Jan 13, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Bowman Valley (sometimes called Bowman Lake) is a series of secluded crags beneath the Bowman Lake Dam where a number of easy to difficult sport climbs have been developed in recent years, with great deal of sport climbing development opportunity here. The rock is heavily textured granite, with excellent friction, and ranges from slab to overhanging roofs with permadraws.

Free camping can be had here, and the only traffic the road gets is National Forest staff, ATV enthusiasts, and climbers. There is excellent swimming in the lake by climbing above Larry Land onto the damn and crossing over the spillway.

Getting There Suggest change

The approach varies depending upon the vehicle used to enter on the National Forest, but a rental car can usually make it within a few miles of the approach trailheads. A good SUV can take you all the way. Take Bowman Lake Road off of Highway 20, usually approached via Interstate 80. Once you turn off of Interstate 80 and head down highway 20 (toward Nevada city) you go 3.5 miles and you'll turn right onto Bowman lake road. Continue on Bowman Lake road for 13 1/2 miles and you'll come to a bridge below Bowman Lake dam. This bridge will be the landmark for the areas in Bowman Valley. The road starts out paved but the last 5 miles are gravel and a little rough in spots. See the GPS location for the precise location of the area to park in. Please note that the US Forest Service Closes the road in the winter from January 1- March 31.  https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tahoe/recarea/?recid=55462

152 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bowman Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 106
Rock n Rolla
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Pork Chop
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Shangri-La
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 99
Long Shot
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 68
Flying Snakes
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Super Natural
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Vision Quest
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 23
"The" WARM-UP!
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Jug-or-Not
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 37
We've Come For Your Daughter, CHUCK
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Porn Star
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 16
Handbook Of The Recently Deceased
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Atomic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Maitland
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 5
Bio-Exorcist
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rock n Rolla Candy Land
 106
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pork Chop Boy Scout Wall
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shangri-La Rediscovery Dome Left
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Long Shot Cove
 99
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flying Snakes Cove
 68
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Super Natural Larry Land
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Vision Quest Cove
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
"The" WARM-UP! B - Word
 23
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Jug-or-Not Cove
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
We've Come For Your Daughte… B - Word
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Porn Star Larry Land
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Handbook Of The Recently De… B - Word
 16
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Atomic Larry Land
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Maitland B - Word
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Bio-Exorcist B - Word
 5
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bowman Valley »

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