Elevation: 5,500 ft
GPS: 39.444, -120.656 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 226,716 total · 1,973/month
Shared By: Kurt Swanson on Jan 13, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Kyle Bishop, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

Bowman Valley (sometimes called Bowman Lake) is a series of secluded crags beneath the Bowman Lake Dam where a number of easy to difficult sport climbs have been developed in recent years, with great deal of sport climbing development opportunity here. The rock is heavily textured granite, with excellent friction, and ranges from slab to overhanging roofs with permadraws.

Free camping can be had here, and the only traffic the road gets is National Forest staff, ATV enthusiasts, and climbers. There is excellent swimming in the lake by climbing above Larry Land onto the damn and crossing over the spillway.

Getting There

The approach varies depending upon the vehicle used to enter on the National Forest, but a rental car can usually make it within a few miles of the approach trailheads. A good SUV can take you all the way. Take Bowman Lake Road off of Highway 20, usually approached via Interstate 80. Once you turn off of Interstate 80 and head down highway 20 (toward Nevada city) you go 3.5 miles and you will turn right onto Bowman lake road. Continue on Bowman Lake road for 13 1/2 miles and you will come to a bridge below Bowman Lake dam. This bridge will be the landmark for the areas in Bowman Valley. The road starts out paved but the last 5 miles are gravel and a little rough in spots. See the GPS location for the precise location of the area to park in.

152 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bowman Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Circus Tricks
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Pulp Friction
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Candy Land
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Rock n Rolla
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Pork Chop
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Candy Man
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Bozo
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Sugar Rush
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Shangri-La
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 75
Long Shot
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Flying Snakes
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 20
"The" WARM-UP!
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 30
Juno Your Case Worker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
We've Come for your Daughter, CHUCK
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Handbook of the Recently Deceased
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Circus Tricks Fun House
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pulp Friction Cove
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Candy Land Candy Land
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rock n Rolla Candy Land
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pork Chop Boy Scout Wall
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Candy Man Candy Land
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bozo Fun House
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sugar Rush Candy Land
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shangri-La Rediscovery Dome Left
 33
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Long Shot Cove
 75
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flying Snakes Cove
 47
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
"The" WARM-UP! B - Word
 20
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Juno Your Case Worker B - Word
 30
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
We've Come for your Daughte… B - Word
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Handbook of the Recently De… B - Word
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bowman Valley »

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