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Routes in Candy Land

Candy Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Candy Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cosmic Followers S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nemo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock n Rolla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Rush S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 5,480 ft
GPS: 39.441, -120.658 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,941 total, 119/month
Shared By: mike carville on Feb 23, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Big slabs with small arching roof across wall between Fun House and The Cove.

Getting There

Either hike up and right from Fun House (see "Getting There" for Fun House) or drive past The Cove to end of big gravel area and approach slabs with the house sized block on left side of Candy Land.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Candy Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Candy Land
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cosmic Followers
Sport, TR 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock n Rolla
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Candy Man
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sugar Rush
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Candy Land 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cosmic Followers 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR 2 pitches
Rock n Rolla 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Candy Man 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sugar Rush 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Candy Land »

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Photos

more anchors are good Sep 20, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Yeah if nobody minds, I would like to add a couple sets of anchors so that more than one party can be on the routes. Sep 19, 2016
Carla R
San Jose, CA
Carla R   San Jose, CA
Shade here until ~1 pm, super fun climbs. Well protected, easy approaches, variable grades. Amazing place. Thanks so much for the "developers" of this area!! Was able to get down just before the bridge with 2wd. Aug 7, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Before I commence with my whiny baby comment, first let me say thank you to Mike and Josh for putting up this collection of routes. Given that most routes at B-Word etc. are 5.11-5.13, it is quite nice to have a collection of routes that are more moderate (this really helps for those of us who have partners that climb at a variety of grades).

That said, what is the deal with the janky anchors on these rigs? At least when I climbed them a year or two ago, the lead bolts were all bomber, but each of the two anchor bolts were studs with one, tiny (dime size) washer holding small link chain on. I had meant to offer up some SS hangers for the anchors, but I moved away before I could do so. I know that the whole "chain and washer" setup has some precedent around here, but I think it is a bummer (I never really liked this setup at B-Word either, but at least there were multiple, larger washers.) Just my two cents.

Again, thanks for the nice routes guys. Cheers. May 19, 2013

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