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Routes in Larry Land

Angels and Demons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Atomic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fairy Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
G Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gary Land S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guilt Trip S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hall of Smears S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hello Larry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Rod S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jakob's Ladder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Larry Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leisure Suit Larry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Nice Guy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Porn Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reality Check S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sub Text S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Super Natural S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tacos and Tequila S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrillbilly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuba Blue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

Larry Land is a series of routes beneath the south dam of the Bowman Lake. It is located directly below the dam, with climbs within feet of the dam itself. As you approach the dam, it is the left wall.

There are about 30 bolted climbs ranging from 5.10-5.13a. Athletic climbing on good edges.

Getting There

Appox 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 down Bowman Lakes road. Park at the bridge beneath the south dam of Bowman Lake. Once parked , hike the dirt road on the south side of the river towards the cement damn, crossing the gorge on the poured cement slab to the left side of the gorge. Approach takes about 10 minutes. The climbs are all just beneath the dam.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Larry Land

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Nice Guy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leisure Suit Larry
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gary Land
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blue Dream
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hello Larry
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hot Rod
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Larry Land
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Natural
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
G Time
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Atomic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Nice Guy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Leisure Suit Larry 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gary Land 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blue Dream 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hello Larry 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hot Rod 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Larry Land 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Super Natural 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
G Time 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Atomic 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Larry Land »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Andrew Davies
San Francisco, CA
Andrew Davies   San Francisco, CA
If climbing around August-early September: the sun hits the wall around 10-10:30 (made the crux part of the namesake climb extra sweaty). This is a bit earlier than what I'd heard, which is that the sun hits the wall around noon, though I'm sure that's referring to more peak season. The leftward climbs (like Pornstar) stayed in the sun until around 11:30. Sep 5, 2017
tahoeclimbing.com/img/excer…

Check out Josh Horniak's new website for his upcoming guide book to Tahoe north shore. Free topo for Larry Land, Bowman. May 29, 2016
I think there might be another line of bolts between Yuba Blue and Fairy Land. On the right side of the wall there are a few large metal poles embedded in the rock in a vertical line (from dam construction, I assume). My memory sucks and I didn't take very good notes (sorry), but I believe there are two routes to the right of these poles. I believe the one furthest right was Yuba Blue.

The one immediately on the right of the metal poles seems like it isn't listed on Mountain Project currently. It was about 12 feet to the left of Yuba Blue. It didn't seem like Fairy Land because it seemed like Fairy Land was a little further left. It felt like 5.11a. Shares an anchor with Yuba Blue. The anchor is a pair of large-style hangers that you can thread a rope directly through. I recommend rapping off these rather than being lowered, and it might be hard to clean the route on rappel, so you might want to have a second climber top-rope the route and clean while climbing.

I'm hesitant to add it here because it's very possible I'm wrong, but mentioning it in case it helps someone with route finding. Oct 26, 2015
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Paul Rezucha There are warning signs etc but there are no actual signs that say NO TRESPASSING that I recall Oct 23, 2015
we've had conversations with NID workers for 5 years now and there seems to be no issue. that being said - no one should climb or rappel off dam. also important that folks don't park in front of the cable on the access road. that happens from time to time. glad you guys are enjoying the climbing there! Sep 6, 2015
Looking at the 7.5 minute topo, it appears all of Larry Land is on NID property, not Forest Service land. Has there been any encounters or discussion with the land managers? Jul 10, 2015
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Hi Mike,

Been 4 times now to Bowman Valley and really love it there. Great rock, routes, and very peaceful. There are prominent NO TRESPASSING signs going into Larry Land. Is it ok to climb there? Thanks! Jul 8, 2015
glad ya had fun. the b - word routes are in the old carville guide. approach from below and cross stream. park on left after big washout couple hundred yards past larry land parking.

left to right (main wall) .12a, 13a, 12c, 12d, 12a, 11d, 12a, 12b.

cheers Mar 27, 2014
Vlad S  
Hi Mike! Thanks a lot for putting the info here and for all the awesome routes! What's the best way to get some route info for B-word and other crags? Mar 24, 2014
Superb rock, easy access, fun sport climbing. Mostly 5.11. Shade till noon then sun remainder of day. Good afternoon shade at B-Word Wall. About 15 bolts lines at Larry Land ranging form .10a - 13a.

Park at bridge exactly 13.5 miles off Hwy 20 on the Bowman Rd. Walk up right side of washed out stream bed (8 mins.) to cement dam (Bowman Lake). Larry Land is obvious bolted cliff that comes off let side of dam. Good swimming at Lake. Feb 16, 2013

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