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All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman Area > The Emeralds > The Benches > The Fortress

Charlee and the Stick Factory

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British


 Avg: 3.5 from 89 votes

Routes in The Fortress

Charlee and the Stick Factory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perils of Babylon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sage Finds the Golden Stick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowboxing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadows on the Earth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Winds S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Burn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
Page Views: 3,450 total · 53/month
Shared By: mike carville on Apr 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Climb gently overhanging face just left of main arete. Got it's name from John's Dog. If you knew this dog, you would know why a route is dedicated to her. Brad figured out a way to start the route without using the side wall on the left. It's fun, see if you can unlock it. This start is rated 5.11-

Location

just right of big slab and left of Perils of Babylon (arete).

Protection

bolts

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Photos

Sitting at the crux. The next hold is good, but us short people (not Mark) may have to throw a bit to get to it.
Sitting at the crux. The next hold is good, but…
 2
Gabriel on Charlie and the Stick Factory (5.10d) at the Fortress at the Emeralds.
Gabriel on Charlie and the Stick Factory (5.10d…
 1
Matt Sumner looking 80's on Charlie and the Stick Factory .10d
Matt Sumner looking 80's on Charlie and the Sti…
 2
onsighting the stick factory.
onsighting the stick factory.
 1

5 Comments

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Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
Awesome route, very fun. Well protected crux, a bit heady at the beginning. Use the wall to the left to make first clip and pull up using huge jugs and good feet to a little no hands rest to make a clip, then fire away! Sep 17, 2013
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.10d
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.10d
Thanks Mike for the kind comments about my dog, Charlee Aug 24, 2014
Tomer Grossman
  5.10d
Tomer Grossman  
  5.10d
Amazing route. 4th bolt is much easier to clip when extended(2 quickdraws). Nov 14, 2016
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
Hard start if you don't use the wall on the left (I'd say, 11+). Otherwise relatively consistent and fun. Not as closely bolted as the routes on the left, so a bit heady because of that. Jul 17, 2017
Mike Thielvoldt
Martinez, CA
 
Mike Thielvoldt   Martinez, CA
 
Excellent route, but be aware of the super-scary chockstone and detached block that retains it right at the top (just left of the anchors). I didn't notice this until I was near the top, but given how unstable it looks I would recommend that your belayer plan which direction to jump to if that thing goes. Oct 27, 2017

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