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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Karl Hammer, 1975
Page Views: 5,638 total · 32/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details


This is the best line at the cliff, at least of the ones I did. The line starts up an easy left-facing corner/handcrack from a big table-like ledge to reach a smaller ledge (5.9?) and then continues up and right at the edge of a corner that becomes a crack, or set of cracks continueing past locks, jams, and liebacks to a crux where a lieback off of a good right hand and high foot on a seam take you to a solid jam again. The route can be protected pretty well if you take the right gear. If you like to load it up on the easier sections, consider taking a few extra cams.The route seemed to be easier than the book grade, and the crowd at the cliff (some locals) told me the former grade was not 5.11a, but 5.10. In any case, it is easier than Karl's Gym (5.10d) or Ariel.To descend, Rap 80' to the ground.


Standard Rack including cams from tiny to 3" and a set of nuts + optional tricams. You can set a TR on the bolt-anchors up above.


Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
Be careful not to block the key jams with gear at the crux... like I did X-( ...

Game-plan for next time:
Get one bomber piece in from the last good stance before the crux (.75 at top of left hand-jam slot I think) and then gun for the #3 sized slot that marks the end of the hard climbing. Oct 5, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
CrimperE6, please put your flag back in your pants. There are bolts and "convenience anchors" at this crag. It is the accepted local ethos at this "gym" and has been for decades. No need for renewed bolt battles because your aesthetic is disturbed. Go over to Star Wall and write the latest rant to be ignored by local climbers on the subject of fixed gear while you're at it. Sep 3, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Just think, this was done in 1975, (probably in bare feet and with 3 wires ;) Now its reduced to just another gym TR, disgusting really, and totally disrespectful to our climbing fore-fathers/sisters. Aug 24, 2015
Tahoma, California
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
This is a great line, and one of the best cracks at Snowshed. There is also a great climb called Peter Panic between PP and Panic. Dec 31, 2012
peachy spohn  
We could just call it 12a and be done with it? But, it is a great route with lots of fun moves! For what it's worth: I os it and it surely felt like 11 to me. Also, my friends who TRed it after me thought it was straight forward enough, but said they thought it was at least 11a. Aug 25, 2012
This is one of the best trad climbs around in the 10+/11- rating. A great climb to train on and push your trad skills. Awesome protection Mar 7, 2009
Maybe violating rule #1, but Karls used to be 10c in the old white guide...

Like many climbs, Peter Principle can feel 5.10 once you got it dialed. When I onsighted it, it sure felt like 11...

It is more straightforward than Karls, certainly. Mar 6, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The Peter Principle is the concept behind the book by the same name, written by Laurence J. Peter in the late 60's if I am not mistaken. I read it in 1985, coincidentally, on my first trip to this area of the country, so there was already an association in my mind and thought about it on my way up this route.
Though I was probably too young to understand some of the nuances of the book, I was able to grasp and retain the following...
Not to be confused with Murphy's Law, which states that "Anything that can go wrong, will", Laurence Peter postulated that a person is rewarded for performance by promotion, and when the performance is no longer exemplary, that the reward cycle (promotion) ends. Thus, with this in place, a person is always promoted to their level of INcompetence and all great performers in our modern world end up being mediocre in their final positions. It suggests that there must be a reward mechanism other than promotion, though the modern work force rarely pays out when a person stays in the same job, doing great work year after year.
An interesting concept and an astute observation made into a very humorous read. Sadly, it never seemed to motivate a change in promotional practices as far as I can tell, because it is still true today, about 25 years later. Still a worthy read and worthy of consideration if you are a manager of technical staff.

I think it's funny that one of you slammed me for downgrading Ariel, and admits that this route is old-school 5.10, while the other is slamming me here for posting the old book's grade for this route, and at the same time saying how over-graded Ariel is...

So maybe the grades are mostly soft at this crag. Both of these routes are a good bit easier than Karl's Gym (10d), which was fair at it's grade or possibly a shave hard if this is your standard. Apr 20, 2006
Yeah, maybe old tahoe 5.10, I've seen many a fit sportos and jym climbers who crank 11+ face get swatted by the peterso I had to post to the comment about easier than ariel.Bring your best jamming and crack techniques and leave the egos back at the bay.

ps.. do yourself a favor and look up the meaning of the 'peter principle' sometime.

Feb 22, 2005

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