Avg: 3.8 from 108 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft|
|FA:||Karl Hammer, 1975|
|Page Views:||6,526 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Sep 27, 2003|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. The Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign, then purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs, in 2015.
This is the best line at the cliff, at least of the ones I did. The line starts up an easy left-facing corner/handcrack from a big table-like ledge to reach a smaller ledge (5.9?) and then continues up and right at the edge of a corner that becomes a crack, or set of cracks continueing past locks, jams, and liebacks to a crux where a lieback off of a good right hand and high foot on a seam take you to a solid jam again. The route can be protected pretty well if you take the right gear. If you like to load it up on the easier sections, consider taking a few extra cams.The route seemed to be easier than the book grade, and the crowd at the cliff (some locals) told me the former grade was not 5.11a, but 5.10. In any case, it is easier than Karl's Gym (5.10d) or Ariel.To descend, Rap 80' to the ground.