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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Max Jones 1978
Page Views: 1,888 total, 17/month
Shared By: urs on Jul 25, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This is the some what odvious crack just to the right of peter principle. Start up an easy dihedral to a ledge follow the ledge to the base of a small dihedral. From here follow the dihedral until you can traverse left into the odvious crack. From here follow the crack through beautiful handjams and awsome finger locks to the top.

Location

This route is just right of peter principle with the small roof near the top.

Protection

This route needs pro to 3inchs with a set of nuts and 1 or 2 number 4s.

Photos

Patrick Cattell   reno
I consider myself a solid .10 climber, and yet I flailed on this route. crux for me was this sketchy sloper traverse that was relatively difficult to protect. I ended up down climbing it :( Next time! Aug 29, 2017
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
the direct was easier than the weird RHS variant. This routes better than it looks, go do it. UK E35c Aug 24, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Direct variation: Harder moves than Peter Principle.

Overall, the climb is probably as sustained as Peter Principle, and more pumpy in nature. Also, we were unable to find the 5.10c version of this climb. Coming in from the right seems harder than the direct variation. Is this an old sand bag, or are we missing some key beta on the sloper traverse?

The direct variation protects pretty well, though there will be a run out (that appears safe) from pulling the bulge to the hand jams above the sloping mantle. A solid as can be 0.5" camalot will be the last piece before the run.

One #4 Camalot was sufficient. Up high, finger-sized cams are nice, and there are some offset cam options. Be prepared to run it a bit at the top, the fall would be clean. Jul 30, 2014
Bababata
Oakland, CA
  5.11a
Bababata   Oakland, CA
  5.11a
I thought the direct variation was a bit harder than Peter Principle, though not as sustained. Great route. Nov 18, 2013
Dra-go-nee
5.10d
Dra-go-nee  
5.10d
Though easier, harder to protect than peter principle.. Aug 26, 2008