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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,917 total · 39/month
Shared By: Aerili on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Start up a small, left-facing corner which leads into a somewhat heady traverse with insecure feet. The traverse takes you left around a thick, triangular flake which then joins the Devaluation Direct line. Continue climbing the thinner, left-facing corner toward the "death block" at 11 o'clock above.

Location

Left of Crack of the Eighties. Walk off the top to climber's right.

Protection

Rack to 3". Tricky pro on the initial start and traverse--place carefully and use multi-directional pieces to avoid zippering!

Gear anchor required.

Photos

The block is quite unnerving! I used it, but pulled as lightly as I could. I think the 5.9 variation on the right (small dihedral and lay back section) is much safer and just as fun. Sep 2, 2013
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.8
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.8
What a fun and varied climb! Plenty of pro on the traverse section and I didn't find the feet to be bad at all. Jul 23, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Fun and interesting line! I avoided the block then exited right to the anchor above Aerial to set up an easy TR. Avoiding the block and laybacking felt harder than 5.7 Aug 31, 2017

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