All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > N Face > 1. N Face Main

Devaluation Direct

Name: Devaluation Direct
Rating: 2.3

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in 1. North Face Main

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crack Of The Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Devaluation T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Monkey Paws T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Panic In Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,484 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Sep 27, 2003
Admins:	Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is the single-most obvious line from the parking area. The crack runes the full length of the main wall (30M tall) and goes up a slot down low, past some crack and some left-facing corners, past a huge death block 50' up. The block is avoided via reaching the corner/handcrack on the right of it. Continue on easy terrain (5.5?) to the top, where a few hexes and nuts (cams OK too) build a solid TR anchor.

The beginning is awkward and is not for the novice trad leader. A bit of a sandbag as well, given 5.9+ by the book.

To descend, Walk to climbers right to some bolt anchors, or over the top to a loose gully.

Protection

Standard Rack including cams from tiny to 4" and a set of nuts + optional tricams. Heavy on the TCU's. You can set a TR from gear up top, but with a 60M rope, it will require attention to get both ends down.There is some difficulty placing gear in a few sections.