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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Eric Beck
Page Views: 9,379 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Edit]

Good climb. This line starts up by Peter Principal, a ways left of Ariel and Devaluation Direct. Start up into a hole in the wall. Work up to and into a bomb-bay squeeze chimney, which is climbed and protected via some finger cracks in the back of it. Step out and to the climber's right as the climbing gets harder. There are crux feet and right-hand side-pulls to be had. Finish the line up on jams and locks with good feet to the top.

Formerly, the top-anchor or TR can be set with a direction at the top of the crack, then stepping to climber's left up top to a set of bolts/chains. However, a retro-bolt anchor has been placed.

Protection [Edit]

Standard Rack of stoppers and cams. The crux is not exactly sewn up, but a 2-2.5" cam rack under the A-frame roof and a few stoppers or TCU's before it make it safe enough, even if exciting at a leader's limit.

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Greg Collins  
 
I have to disagree on the star rating. This is a fantastic climb. Easy start to bombay chimney, squeeze out and pull above it, then an easier, but not easy crack to the top. Definately 3 or 4 stars Jan 20, 2006
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Go left-side-in for the crux. It's a trifle easier than it looks but still on the spicy side. Save some strength and a #2 Camalot for the upper (5.8-5.9ish) crack; it's not a gimme. Sep 19, 2006
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
To update the OP's beta: there are now anchors directly above Bottomless Topless, no need for directionals. Sep 16, 2010
kolamjr
Tahoma, California
 
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
 
You can also stay outside the chimney, and straddle it from outside, it is a fun variation on this wonderful climb. Dec 31, 2012

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