Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Eric Beck
Page Views: 11,186 total · 58/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Good climb. This line starts up by Peter Principal, a ways left of Ariel and Devaluation Direct. Start up into a hole in the wall. Work up to and into a bomb-bay squeeze chimney, which is climbed and protected via some finger cracks in the back of it. Step out and to the climber's right as the climbing gets harder. There are crux feet and right-hand side-pulls to be had. Finish the line up on jams and locks with good feet to the top.

Formerly, the top-anchor or TR can be set with a direction at the top of the crack, then stepping to climber's left up top to a set of bolts/chains. However, a retro-bolt anchor has been placed.

Protection

Standard Rack of stoppers and cams. The crux is not exactly sewn up, but a 2-2.5" cam rack under the A-frame roof and a few stoppers or TCU's before it make it safe enough, even if exciting at a leader's limit.

Photos