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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,173 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Edit]

Climb the largest continuous crack on the far left side of the north face of the Snowshed wall. The crux is the first ten feet, and after that the climbing is simpler until a commiting move on the top of the route to get on the top slab. There is a shortcut that bypasses the crux by climbing the ledge on the left up to the crack, this route is called Split Pea (5.8).

Rappell off the anchors to Karl's Gym (5.10d) which is found by wandering down and left on the slab on top of the route.

Protection [Edit]

small friends and nuts on the bottom (1.5"), and any size gear will work in loads of placements on the top.

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Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
There are rappel anchors/chains at the top of this route.

Tricky gear up the vertical first 1/3 of the route. Small to very small cams and nuts helpful here. Nothing above a 1" piece is really needed for any part of the route, although I brought a 2 and tried to put it in one of the horizontals you come to at the start; however, it was too small. A #3 would fit.

I found doubles on .75 useful. Jul 18, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.9 PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.9 PG13
A little more heads up than I thought it would be.

Tricky gear in sections between horizontal cracks.

Bolted anchor approximately 100' from the ground. Keep heading up the slab after you finish the initial vertical section.

First 10' are for sure the crux. Jul 20, 2009
Scott T
Alpine Meadows, CA
  5.9
Scott T   Alpine Meadows, CA
  5.9
Not sure I agree with "loads of placements up top" referring to the slab section. There are only a few placements for sm-med nuts and microcams. The placements are shallow but good if you take the time. I always find this part to be the crux; maybe the crack start off the ground favors taller climbers as I am 6'4". May 14, 2011
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
Heads up for the first 30'. An offset blue/purple MC protects the move from the first rail to the second rail and takes the edge off this thing. Jul 19, 2013

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