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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,133 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Climb the largest continuous crack on the far left side of the north face of the Snowshed wall. The crux is the first ten feet, and after that the climbing is simpler until a commiting move on the top of the route to get on the top slab. There is a shortcut that bypasses the crux by climbing the ledge on the left up to the crack, this route is called Split Pea (5.8).

Rappell off the anchors to Karl's Gym (5.10d) which is found by wandering down and left on the slab on top of the route.

Protection

small friends and nuts on the bottom (1.5"), and any size gear will work in loads of placements on the top.

Photos

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Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.9 PG13
Heads up for the first 30'. An offset blue/purple MC protects the move from the first rail to the second rail and takes the edge off this thing. Jul 19, 2013
Scott T
Alpine Meadows, CA
  5.9
Scott T   Alpine Meadows, CA
  5.9
Not sure I agree with "loads of placements up top" referring to the slab section. There are only a few placements for sm-med nuts and microcams. The placements are shallow but good if you take the time. I always find this part to be the crux; maybe the crack start off the ground favors taller climbers as I am 6'4". May 14, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.9 PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.9 PG13
A little more heads up than I thought it would be.

Tricky gear in sections between horizontal cracks.

Bolted anchor approximately 100' from the ground. Keep heading up the slab after you finish the initial vertical section.

First 10' are for sure the crux. Jul 20, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
There are rappel anchors/chains at the top of this route.

Tricky gear up the vertical first 1/3 of the route. Small to very small cams and nuts helpful here. Nothing above a 1" piece is really needed for any part of the route, although I brought a 2 and tried to put it in one of the horizontals you come to at the start; however, it was too small. A #3 would fit.

I found doubles on .75 useful. Jul 18, 2009