Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Max Jones (lead)??
Page Views: 6,300 total · 44/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 8, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Awesome thin crack just left of "Bottomless Topless".

Pulling the roof will be the crux for most, but if leading, the top is pumper and a wee bit heady. Awkward, hard to see placements past the 2/3rds horizontal "rest".

Location

Obvious chalked up finger crack with a roof about 25' up on the front side of Snowshed, just left of the 10a chimney, "Bottomless Topless"

Protection

Thin rack, an arsennal of small cams up to about a 2" piece for right above the roof.

Or better perhaps, just set up a TR.

Photos

urs
 
urs  
 
One of the best cracks i have done so far. If you are up for the grade then this is a must do. A crux roof leads into thin liebacking on perfect finger locks. Awesome and sustained! Nov 23, 2008
A great climb to push your trad ability to the next level - good protection and good to fall on. Took a 20'+ fall about 10' above the horizontal - 0.5" friend held perfectly Mar 7, 2009
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Great route, clean falls, great pro, just make sure you bring your offsets. A really good route to push the grade on. Jul 27, 2013
kolamjr
Tahoma, California
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
Hello
Great climb!
There is a great photo of Mike Carville free solo on Monkey Paws. Jan 15, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Fun UK E56B, polished and chalked to fuck. Aug 24, 2015
MorganH
  5.12a
MorganH  
  5.12a
Awesome route!

0.75x2, yellow alien X 2, red camalot X 1, red alien X 1, green alien

Bullet rock, and cool moves. Probably closer to 11c most trad areas. Aug 28, 2017