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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Max Jones (lead)??
Page Views: 6,238 total · 44/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 8, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Awesome thin crack just left of "Bottomless Topless".

Pulling the roof will be the crux for most, but if leading, the top is pumper and a wee bit heady. Awkward, hard to see placements past the 2/3rds horizontal "rest".

Location

Obvious chalked up finger crack with a roof about 25' up on the front side of Snowshed, just left of the 10a chimney, "Bottomless Topless"

Protection

Thin rack, an arsennal of small cams up to about a 2" piece for right above the roof.

Or better perhaps, just set up a TR.

Photos

urs
 
urs  
 
One of the best cracks i have done so far. If you are up for the grade then this is a must do. A crux roof leads into thin liebacking on perfect finger locks. Awesome and sustained! Nov 23, 2008
A great climb to push your trad ability to the next level - good protection and good to fall on. Took a 20'+ fall about 10' above the horizontal - 0.5" friend held perfectly Mar 7, 2009
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
 
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
 
Great route, clean falls, great pro, just make sure you bring your offsets. A really good route to push the grade on. Jul 27, 2013
kolamjr
Tahoma, California
kolamjr   Tahoma, California
Hello
Great climb!
There is a great photo of Mike Carville free solo on Monkey Paws. Jan 15, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Fun UK E56B, polished and chalked to fuck. Aug 24, 2015
MorganH
  5.12a
MorganH  
  5.12a
Awesome route!

0.75x2, yellow alien X 2, red camalot X 1, red alien X 1, green alien

Bullet rock, and cool moves. Probably closer to 11c most trad areas. Aug 28, 2017

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